Zuhair Murad continued to mine the crystalline beauty of the Arctic with a fall-winter collection called Frozen Kiss. Counting more than 130 pieces, the lineup focused on the interplay of light and shadow, amping up the colors, visual texture and drama of the northern lights with rich embellishments like 3D florals and frost-pattern embroideries, crystal outcroppings and, in a new variation, freestyle squiggles on a couple of off-the shoulder numbers. The designer continued to explore flou and structure, making bold statements through strategic transparency, power shoulders, corseted gowns and sculptural coats.
Concentrating on a moody palette of black, white, lush greens, and burgundy, Murad revisited some classics we hadn’t seen in a little while, like capes—last presented three seasons ago—here in long and short versions iced with crystal. Elsewhere in the archives, some couture favorites were modernized for ready-to-wear clients, among them a white gown shrouded in black tulle at the shoulders, a glacial blue strapless taffeta gown with a fitted bodice that nodded to his robust bridal business, and an artfully draped purple bustier gown whose structure was refined using techniques honed over the past decade or so.
For polar queens in need of day wear, the designer offered a few potential crossovers, for example a sharply cut white suit, spliced and studded miniskirts and crop tops, or a burgundy midi dress. But his focus remained on high-impact, red carpet-ready designs: earlier this week, Kelly Ripa appeared at the Oscars in an orange chiffon number from the resort collection, and Sara Sampaio and Paris Jackson both wore Murad’s couture to the Vanity Fair party. Presumably, come fall there will be a solid lineup of daywear in-store. It would have been nice to see more options here.
