Antique, by contrast, applies strictly to garments over a century old. An Edwardian tea gown from 1915? Antique. A beaded bias-cut evening dress from 1935? Vintage. The difference is not just academic; it reflects how and whether a piece can realistically be worn today.
Then there’s archival, a term that has become increasingly fashionable in its own right. Archival pieces refer to specific items pulled from a designer’s or brand’s past collections. A look from Prada’s Fall 2010 runway, pulled from storage, is archival but not technically vintage—yet. All archival pieces may one day be vintage, but not all vintage pieces are archival. Then there are terms like designer consignment, resale, thrift, and second-hand, which have more to do with denoting the type of store you’re shopping at than the contents.
How to Date a Vintage Find: Clues in the Details
Zippers: The Metal vs. Plastic Divide
For the trained eye, zippers are the simplest tell. Metal zippers, usually sewn into side seams or up the back, were standard until the late 1960s. Plastic or nylon zippers became prevalent starting in the 1970s, especially in mass-produced clothing. If you spot a chunky metal zipper, chances are you’re holding something mid-century or prior.
Fiber Content Labels and Fabrics
Fabric composition and labeling offer further clues. The U.S. Federal Trade Commission mandated fiber content labeling in 1960. If your garment lacks any indication of fiber content, it may well predate that rule. You’ll also notice how synthetics—nylon, polyester, acetate—began to dominate post-WWII, especially in the optimistic 1950s and ’60s. Earlier garments lean toward natural fibers: silk, cotton, wool.
Union Labels: The ILGWU Signpost
One of the most reliable signposts, particularly in American-made clothing, is the ILGWU (International Ladies’ Garment Workers’ Union) tag. These union labels evolved decade by decade, and comparing them to online charts can narrow production dates significantly.
Sizing and Country of Origin
Size tags, too, are revealing. A size twelve from the 1960s is closer to a modern size six, thanks to vanity sizing’s steady inflation over the decades. Country of origin labels also shifted with globalization; pre-1990s, it was far more common to see “Made in USA” proudly emblazoned inside even designer garments.
Construction Details: Pinked Seams and Hand-Finished Hems
Then there’s construction. Pinked seams—those zig-zag edges—are a dead giveaway of pre-serger machine manufacturing, common in the 1940s and ’50s. Hand-finished hems, intricate linings, and weighted hems all suggest a garment from an era when craftsmanship was paramount.
Why It Matters
Understanding these nuances isn’t just a party trick—it deepens your appreciation of fashion history itself. It situates you within a lineage of style that stretches back a century, linking you to the designers, ateliers, and wearers who shaped each piece. Whether you’re sourcing a pristine 1950s sheath, a 1990s Galliano gown, or a perfectly worn-in band tee, knowing how to define, date, and value vintage turns the simple act of getting dressed into something far richer: participation in fashion’s long, ever-evolving (and revolving!) conversation.
And in an era where vintage is more visible, accessible, and desirable than ever before, that kind of knowledge is the ultimate style power move.
