“The history of many Ukrainian fashion brands that are now internationally recognized—Bevza, Frolov, Litkovska, Ksenia Schnaider—began on the Ukrainian Fashion Week catwalk,” says Iryna Danylevska, cofounder and CEO of Ukrainian Fashion Week. “In times of full-scale war, we realize how crucial it is to support the young generation of designers, the future of Ukrainian fashion, which is why this season we have placed a special focus on them. Our nation is rich in talent, and for 27 years we have been working to amplify their voices on the global stage. For us, fashion is not only creativity—it has become a tool for protecting our freedom, identity, and future.”
Danylevska’s words capture the mood of the season. While Ukrainian Fashion Week as an institution continues to nurture young talent, designers, in turn, are delving deeper into their cultural heritage, using fashion as a visual language to introduce the world to Ukraine’s rich traditions.
This season opened with Frolov’s show-slash-concert. Ivan Frolov’s namesake label is internationally recognized for seductive stage costumes worn by the likes of Sabrina Carpenter, Kylie Minogue, Doja Cat, Sam Smith, and Beyoncé, as well as its signature tight corset dresses lavishly adorned with crystals. For the past decade, Frolov has been introducing the world to his vision of Ukrainian sexuality, and this season he explored the sensual side of Ukraine’s late-1990s and early-2000s rock subculture. According to the designer, his Dirty as an Angel collection was a tribute to the era of alternative culture that shaped an entire generation of Ukrainians, those who, after the collapse of the Soviet Union, discovered true freedom via music and pop culture. The show’s scenography drew inspiration from iconic music programs of that time on national TV, blending punk aesthetics with Frolov’s signature provocative sensuality. The collection included sculptural Gothic corsets; long, dramatic silhouettes inspired by Ingmar Bergman’s film Cries and Whispers; and tight belts encrusted with metal rivets and rich Swarovski crystals. Alongside the models, legendary singers of the ’90s Ukrainian music scene—Ulia Lord, Irena Karpa, and Krykhitka—made catwalk cameos. Thirty years ago, they embodied the wind of change and were role models for a generation of today’s 30-somethings. In a pre-social-media world, television was the ultimate star-maker, and they were among the brightest stars of their time.
Yulia Yarmolyuk’s J’amemme, known for its romantic dressing and smart work with pleating, explored the deep connection between Ukrainian fashion and theater, with the show held in one of Kyiv’s renowned theaters and a performance directed by rising acting star Vitaly Azhnov. It blended fashion, cinematic storytelling, live music, and even scent. The intimate atmosphere provided the perfect backdrop for dramatic dresses in deep, jewel-toned shades of ruby, sapphire, and emerald. Yarmolyuk continues to push the boundaries in her work with pleating, and in addition to her signature silk and lace fabrications, the designer introduced a striking crocodile texture in faux leather.
Founded in 2013 in what is now occupied Donetsk, Gasanova first gained momentum with seductive crystal mesh dresses frequently spotted on Kourtney Kardashian and Gigi Hadid. This season Elvira Gasanova teamed up with dancers from Freedom Ballet, who turned the runway into a dynamic dance battle where clothing became an organic part of the performance. According to Gasanova, this dance routine was a celebration of the strength, endurance, and courage of Ukrainian women. Fittingly, she named Elina Svitolina, Ukraine’s most heralded tennis player, the muse of the collection.
Designer Tetyana Chumak, founder of the sustainable TG Botanical label, first showed her fall collection a few weeks ago during Copenhagen Fashion Week and then brought it to Kyiv. “This season my work was born from deeply personal experiences and embodies the serene yet powerful atmosphere of nighttime walks by the sea,” said Chumak, who now lives in Spain and recently became a mother again. “Each look reflects its beauty and mystery, telling a story through carefully selected fabrics and silhouettes—from the shimmering glow of waves in the moonlight to the rich textures of the underwater world.” The designer focused on fabric textures that evoke the gentle sway of algae beneath the waves and the softness of water at night. Her materials (certified flax, cotton, and nettle) paid homage to the shifting states and moods of the sea, and the rich color palette reflected the play of moonlight on water, adding depth to every look.
Kyiv-born and London-based Ksenia Schnaider is often hailed as the queen of eco-denim and regularly presents her collections in Copenhagen and London. She founded her namesake label together with her husband, Anton Schnaider, in 2011, and they are known for meticulous attention to detail rooted in precise tailoring and sustainable materials, all shaped by a philosophy of “design minus design.” Denim remains the brand’s primary focus, with the Schnaiders developing their own method of transforming textile waste into denim fur. The label produces about 3,000 recycled pieces annually, making up around 70% of each collection. At their show in Kyiv, they introduced a playful yet philosophical capsule collection, Think Inside the Box. “Instead of stepping outside the box, we bring these boxes into the real world,” Ksenia explained. The collection debuted simultaneously physically in Kyiv and in a dedicated digital space, where guests were introduced to a world of simplified cubic forms, instantly evoking the aesthetics of Roblox, Minecraft, avatars, and pixelated visuals. The clothing itself mirrored this concept: Jeans, jackets, T-shirts, and hats took on rigid, geometric, boxy silhouettes with the designers promising to unveil more wearable versions of the designs later.
Reflecting on this year’s Ukrainian Fashion Week, it is impossible to overlook the platform’s and brands’ important social mission: supporting Ukrainian defenders and advancing adaptive clothing. According to the Superhumans Center—an all-Ukrainian medical center for prosthetics, reconstructive surgery, and rehabilitation of war victims—more than 50,000 people in Ukraine lost a limb in 2024 alone, which creates an urgent need for specialized, functional apparel. The menswear brand Andreas Moskin is leading in this field. Its adaptive jackets feature removable sleeves with hidden fastenings, and pants include discreet closures along the inner seams, allowing wearers to put on or remove prosthetics easily. Young Ukrainian designer Igor Sidletsky also embraced adaptive fashion; his show finale featured war veteran Zakhar Biryukov, who lost three limbs in July 2022 and walked the runway with confidence and composure. Later, backstage, Biryukov admitted that he found skydiving easier than modeling. In that moment his eyes welled with tears of joy and gratitude—just like ours.
