There was nothing that could have prepared me for the reaction of my fellow editors when a package containing an Hermés Birkin landed on my desk at Who What Wear UK HQ.
The gasps! The touching! The collective awe! This is a bag that still commands unwavering reverence everywhere it goes, and despite being on the market for well over 41 years, it is still as coveted today as it was when it launched. My introduction to the Birkin (as I’m sure is the same for many millennials) was the episode of Sex and the City when even Samantha Jones can’t get her hands on one. The implication even then was clear: the Hermés Birkin is in the upper echelons, and no waiting list or amount of sweet-talking sales staff will get you one, but with the unexpected drop of a $80 Wallmart dupe dubbed the “Wirkin” at the end of last year, TikTok is one again buzzing over the bag that is as much a status symbol as it is an accessory.
“Hermés bags are the pinnacle of luxury, and great from an investment perspective, as most models double or triple their value the minute they leave the shop floor,” notes Hanushka Toni, founder of luxury preloved boutique Sellier. “It is nearly impossible to walk into Hermés and simply buy a Birkin or a Kelly. Whilst the crafts[person]ship and quality are second to none, what really makes Hermès bags so desirable is their exclusivity. That sense of rarity, combined with their timeless design and investment potential, makes them the ultimate status symbol, which is why consumers are so eager to get their hands on one.”
So, is the Birkin truly head-and-shoulders above the rest, or just the product of some extremely well-thought-out marketing and endorsements? Well, prices aside, the secondhand market would suggest that similar to the Chanel Flap and Dior Book Tote, the allure of the Birkin, and in fact, of most designer handbags, no longer lies in the shopping experience alone, but the preservation of archival pieces.
“The preloved market is the best place to invest in timeless luxury pieces. When an item is on its second life, it’s a testament to the quality of its fabric and crafts[person]ship—provided it has been well cared for,” adds Toni. “Buying secondhand makes investment pieces more accessible, as price points are often lower than buying new. The secondary market has completely transformed access to luxury. It allows buyers to find rare and discontinued pieces that would otherwise be out of reach without spending years building a relationship with a sales associate.
“Many designer bags even hold or increase in value over time, making them a smarter investment than buying retail, and, for those who want to experience the magic of a Hermès bag without a long-term commitment, luxury rental is also a fantastic alternative. It allows people to enjoy iconic pieces for special occasions or try different styles before making a purchase. Luxury should be enjoyed, and the resale and rental markets are making that more possible than ever.”
Keen to feel the quality and road-test this iconic bag for myself, I reached out to the Sellier team and asked to spend 24 hours with the world’s most famous handbag. Would it feel luxurious? How would it carry? And most importantly, would it be worth the money?
The Stats
Brand: Hermès
Model: Birkin 35cm
Materials: Clemence leather (thick and durable calf leather with a medium grain).
Colour: Biscuit
Hardware: Palladium
Comes with: Dust bag, lock, keys, clochette and Entrupy certificate (an AI-based luxury certification service).
Measurements: 35cm x 25cm x 18cm
Stamp: L Square
Year: 2008
(Image credit: @remyfarrell)
Hermés Birkin Bag Review
So, let’s start off with the look and feel of the bag. There’s no denying the wow factor when you slide off the dust bag to reveal the tote underneath, and given the current penchant for structured top-handle bags of a medium size and minimalist design (specifically The Row’s Margaux and the Ferragamo Hug), this bag immediately ticks all of the right boxes on style.
My first stop of the day was a breakfast meeting, and the last thing I wanted to carry was a super-heavy bag that I’d have to lug around on the tube. Although the Birkin I tested isn’t quite big enough for my laptop and extras, it comfortably fits my makeup bag, phone, keys, perfume, a hairbrush and my book—in other words, the essentials, without weighing me down. The clasp may have taken some initial fumbling to get open, but if ever there was a bag that you needn’t worry someone could slip their hand into, it’s this.
Although we may be more used to slouchier totes that you can fold up under your arm, there’s something satisfying about the Birkin’s rigidity. Whether it was in my locker, on the train or sitting on a coffee table, it holds its form whilst taking up minimal space. At times, I was suddenly aware that I was treating the bag like a baby (and yes, it deserved its own seat at the breakfast table), but in this colourway in particular, I’m inclined to treat the leather like a precious object. It’s not buttery soft, but instead, it’s a much thicker, grained leather that feels more durable—perfect for protecting the far smoother and more sumptuous suede inside. Now, that looked and smelt like pure luxury.
I got plenty of looks carrying this around, and I wondered if it was because of the bag itself, people trying to figure out whether it was real or fake or the fact that I immediately carried myself like a celebrity despite standing in a queue for a salad at lunch. Clearly, this bag unlocked the latent A-lister in me, and I’m not about to consider that a problem.
So, how did it hold up for the rest of the day? Well, given that this is not your average throw-on-and-go bag, I did spend a lot of time undoing the clasp, lifting the flap, aligning everything and fastening it again (and that’s without locking it with the key, as I didn’t trust myself not to lose it). It’s a strong safety measure that will please many buyers, but I’m perhaps a little too impatient. By the time I make it to the evening, I’m ready to go out for drinks after work without having to swap to a different bag, and I cannot stress enough how convenient this is when I see so many commuters stuggling with a nice handbag, a tote bag and potentially a laptop bag all at once.
“On the resale market, the classic Birkin 25 in black with gold hardware or gold on gold is a sought-after item, making it a worthwhile option for collectors looking for a long-term investment,” points out Toni. “Additionally, we’re seeing the classic size of the Birkin (the 35) becoming more popular amongst buyers.” And for very good reason. The size is what scores the real points here, as it isn’t the biggest Birkin available (that’s the whopping 50), but the shallower mini 25 is just too micro to fit everything inside, making the 35 the happy medium.
Unlike many top-handle bags, the Birkin doesn’t come with a shoulder strap, so if you want to switch around positions for comfort, you’re looking at swapping the hand you carry it in as opposed to wearing it crossbody or on the shoulder, but as someone who never uses the extra attachments anyway, this is more of an observation than a criticism.
On close inspection, the faultless seams and joins are a clear sign of the craftspersonship that goes into these pieces. Every detail, from the colour of the thread to the embossing on the padlock, has been thought out and executed by the artisans who make every cut and stitch by hand to uniformity. It may sound like a lot, but as someone who has paid to have bags restored, handles replaced and shoes re-glued, it’s reassuring to find a designer item that hasn’t cut corners just to increase the markup. Every penny spent to make this bag (and believe me, it’s a lot) must count for something.
Final Thoughts
It’s almost impossible to ignore the eye-watering price when discussing the Birkin. It’s not the kind of purchase that anyone could easily describe as “value for money”, but it is an example of just how designer bags can retain their value on the resale market. Out of all of the luxury greats to stand the test of time—the saddle bag, the baguette, the Jackie—it is Hermés with the most impressive and farthest-reaching legacy, and even its sister bag, the Kelly, doesn’t have quite the same pull as its younger counterpart.
The bag I loaned was one of the “cheaper” options, retailing at around £8850 secondhand, so it didn’t hit the £20K benchmark like some of the rarer styles, but it still felt far too special to be an everyday bag option. If you’re looking for one of the more entry-level options, go for palladium hardware over gold, Clemence leather over Chèvre leather and exotic skins and stick to sizes 35 and below—anything more sizable can send costs into five figures on reputable sites.
Is the Birkin the kind of bag you carry on the tube for your everyday commute? Absolutely not. But is it the kind of special-occasion style you can hand down to the next generation? Honestly, yes. What you may or may not consider a “wise investment” ultimately comes down to budget, and if you are a bag collector who would happily spend thousands on the latest styles from Loewe or Khaite, a Birkin feels like it has far more longevity in the long run. Whilst owning a Birkin is outside the realm of possibility for this fashion editor, I did get a buzz from this moment of proximity to fashion greatness and would happily recommend renting one for the curious.
PROS: Exclusivity, elegant design, exceptional craftspersonship, iconic legacy, roomy, lightweight, cleaning kits available (depending on colour), resale value.
CONS: Price, wearability, ease of access.
Shop Hermés BIrkin Bags:
Sellier Knightsbridge
Hermès Birkin Retourne 25cm Bag in Bleu Glacier Togo Leather With Gold Hardware
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Hermès Birkin Bag 30cm Retourne in Black Epsom Leather With Gold Hardware
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Hermès Birkin Retourne 30cm Bag in Vert Olive Shiny Porosus Crocodile Leather With Palladium Hardware
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Hermes Candy Birkin 30cm in Rouge Casaque and Blue Thalassa in Epsom Leather With Permabrass Hardware
Sellier Leeds
Hermès Birkin 35cm Bag in Blue Petrole Togo Leather With Palladium Hardware
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