Some brands present in fashion’s capital as a one-off stint. But if today was any indication, Toteme has connected with Paris and vice versa. “We had so much fun last time,” said Toteme’s Karl Lindman with Elin Kling backstage after their sophomore show here (the brand’s collections continue to take place in New York).
We were back in the same spacious white-walled venue near the Place Vendome; only now, the runway was demarcated by large tiles in an oxidized steel that called to mind the conceptual floor art of Carl Andre. The reference later confirmed, it provided a subtle cue to how their minimalist approach signals something far more multi-dimensional.
For a brand that has built loyalty through consistency—whether nuanced non-colors or soft yet statuesque shapes—the winter season affords an opportunity to rethink silhouettes and materials via additional layers. Outerwear in cocooning constructions of leather, shearing, and nylon synced with the slimmer knits and fluid tailoring underneath and made for the kind of contemporary power dressing that Nicole Kidman’s character in Babygirl would wear on the regular.
Look closely and you’ll see a future must-have; what initially seemed like the dangling sleeves of a sweater that had been wrapped around the waist were really a clever extension of just one sweater. All the styling attitude minus the bulk; one in every shade please. Another standout: leggy stretch boots in leather or satin with different heel heights as a recurring counterpoint to the cocoon volumes on top. “We were basically saying ‘wide trousers or no trousers this season,” Kling mused.
But the lineup was saying something else in its totality. That this range of put-together looks, which also included a number of sheaths entirely covered in micro-sequins and dresses vented to reveal inner cascades of guipure lace, required little effort to get right. You could even wear a shirtdress the other way around, buttons at the back, and it would look entirely intentional. Perhaps Toteme was considering what follows from quiet luxury, with one option being elegant efficiency.
On the first day of the haute couture calendar, the Swedish duo reiterated how this timing revolves around the B Corp Certification they attained in September. Complying with the rigorous standards means a longer manufacturing and distribution schedule. While the post-show bustle prevented us from going into greater detail, you can glean once again how there is a lot more to Toteme than meets the eye.
