It may sound twisted, but there’s something undeniably satisfying when skin-care products cause a little discomfort; the tingling sensation of an at-home chemical peel or the prickling of a dermaroller makes it feel like they’re actually working—and in real time. The latest interest in non-invasive at-home treatments involves spicule skin-care formulas, which are often referred to as “liquid microneedling” without the need for puncturing skin. Always a step ahead, spicule skin-care unsurprisingly originated in Korean serums before making its way over stateside.
“Spicules are microscopic, needle-like structures derived from marine sponges, plant extracts, or synthetic bioactive materials,” explains Anetta Reszko, MD, a board-certified dermatologist in New York, NY. According to cosmetic chemist Victoria Fu, they’re often hollow, and thus can be filled with active ingredients. Though you can’t see them in a product, you can certainly feel them once a formula containing spicules has been applied. Imagine rubbing a small amount of fiberglass into the skin, sharp and stinging—we never said it’d feel pleasant!—with the level of irritation spiking as the concentration of spicules in a formula increases.
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Experts say spicule skin-care is growing in popularity because it bridges the gap between medspa treatments and an at-home routine with formulas that feel clinical and deliver fast results but don’t require an appointment or consultation. And the purported benefits that spicules offer the skin sound a lot like those offered by traditional microneedling: “When applied to the skin, spicules gently puncture the outermost layer [the stratum corneum], which encourages cell turnover, stimulates collagen production, and can help with the absorption of active ingredients,” explains Eunice Park, MD, a dual-board-certified facial plastic and reconstructive surgeon and the founder of AIREM in New York. (While both spicule skin-care and microneedling can help active ingredients absorb more deeply into the skin, they’re two different treatments—which we’ll get into more specifically later on.)
According to Dr. Reszko, research suggests that less than 1% of active ingredients in traditional skin-care products are able to reach the deeper layers of the skin—where those ingredients need to be to help improve skin quality and function. But by bypassing the stratum corneum, spicules promote deeper penetration of active ingredients—ultimately promoting more efficacy from your skin-care routine. “Some formulations include bioactive coatings on spicules, allowing for slow-release delivery of active ingredients as they dissolve,” adds Dr. Reszko. The longer it takes for active skin-care ingredients to absorb into your skin, the more benefit they can provide.
