While she can’t claim credit for America’s favourite true blues, Marant is widely considered one of the early pioneers of the Noughties’ era-defining bohemianism; she was the driving force behind the coltish proportions of the skinny-jeans-and-trophy-jacket look beloved by Y2K It-girls and the brains behind some of the decade’s most recognisable fashion trends, including the iconic wedge sneaker (more on that later). What does she make of the boho resurgence?
“I think this boho style came more from my love of craft,” she says, carefully side-stepping the word “trend”. “I think what people can achieve with their hands is so beautiful, and this is something I’m very sensitive about: the weaving process, the knitting process, the embroidering process, the embellishment. I think this is something that fast fashion is weaker on, and this has pushed me more to develop more uniqueness in my designs. I think people are looking for authenticity.”
Looking back at the designer’s extensive oeuvre, one of the pieces that is arguably considered most authentically “Marant” is the Bekett wedge sneaker, a sellout (and sometimes divisive) shoe that was a common sight on A-listers and glossy magazine editors in the 2010s. It was athleisure long before athleisure was a memeable, multi-billion dollar industry. “When I was eight or nine, I wanted to look older and taller, so I started to play with this piece of cork, putting it inside my inner sole. That’s how the idea of a hidden lift came about,” she says of the trainer’s origins. “When I started in the ’90s, everyone in fashion was wearing super high heels – it’s beautiful for women’s legs, but it can be such torture to wear them, and I wasn’t ready to be tortured. I thought, ‘Okay, what you were doing as a kid was actually quite cool’, so I started to work on an idea. I knew it would be an instant hit.”
A contemporary reworking of the Noughties wedge trainer is a core part of the Converse X Isabel Marant collaboration, with the new iteration combining the Chuck Taylor All Star’s signature motifs, including the white rubber sole, circular insignia and lace-up fastening, with Marant’s distinctive tufted fabrication and vibrant prints, which can be spotted on the colourful edging and laces. A classic low-top will also be available for those who remain ambivalent about the wedge’s return.
No stranger to a viral fashion collab – Marant’s 2013 partnership with high-street behemoth H&M sold out within 45 minutes and saw shoppers queueing around the block from 4am – we have no doubt that this latest union will have both Isabel Marant loyalists and new-gen Converse-lovers running to stores with equal enthusiasm. How does the designer herself plan on styling the collection? “I love how the wedge sneakers elongate your legs, so I would recommend styling them with a miniskirt or pair of shorts,” she says, gesturing to her outfit – an unquestionably Marant ensemble of a black tank top, white denim cutoffs, patched utility jacket and wedge sneaker. She remains just as much the epitome of the “Marant” woman as she has ever been.
Converse X Isabel Marant will be available to shop on isabelmarant.com and converse.com from 12 September.