A newcomer at Berlin Fashion Week just a few seasons ago, Rosa Marga Dahl and Jacob Langemeyer’s SF1OG has developed within a very short time. With a promising concept that combines artistic repurposing of antique fabrics and contemporary design, the label has quickly become a favorite of the German fashion scene. As time goes by, the designers are growing up, as yesterday’s show made abundantly clear. After putting on their presentations in school buildings and evoking adolescence in their collections, SF1OG is now moving into the phase of youthful rebellion.
The silhouettes were much narrower than usual, a first indication that not even Berlin’s oversized craze can escape the impending comeback of slim ’fits. The skinny jeans and leather trousers channeled a vibe that had not been seen here for a long time: indie sleaze. Dahl and Langemeyer examined the concept of uniforms, especially those of youth cultures. Which clothes make an impact on one’s identity?
The label has never been afraid of nostalgia, even if this collection played with references almost too obviously. Striped knitwear was worn over or under white shirts, while low-waisted trousers and thick eyeliner vied for attention. A bit of grunge, a bit of rock—and, to everyone’s surprise, suddenly shutter shades. Feathery collars and a few flowing silhouettes in elegant fabrics lightened the mood for a second before leather elements, studs, and worn-out Converse sneakers brought us back down to earth. The SF1OG show, by the way, was held in the “Halle am Berghain,” an event location right next door to the world-famous nightclub.
