Runway

Samuel Ross Begins His Quest for Fashion Democracy With Zara

“Not by chance have we seen macro fatigue surrounding luxury consumer goods,” Ross said: “People are questioning what this [fashion] can do for them, and we need to go back to the core tenets of garments.” The global personal luxury goods market lost about 50 million consumers in 2024. When Ross says that people are fatigued by luxury, he doesn’t mean merely the aesthetics but the experience. The reality is that most folks have now been priced out of luxury fashion. The way Ross sees it, people deserve access to good clothes designed with intention and sold at a reasonable price. No arguing that.

Ross said that he sees it as his role to “make [fashion] accessible. I want to find a mature proposition for the market with clothes that are durable but offer expression in silhouette and proportion,” he said. The first collection he released for his Atelier line in September was heavily outerwear based with generous volumes that appeared “almost monk-like.” This Accessible capsule expands on that language in a way that feels more approachable.

The collection, as seen in the lookbook featuring Luka Sabbat, leans into a somewhat lounge-y space. But, said Ross, “as opposed to the niche fitness trends” we’ve seen pop up online of late (think the endless amounts of running clubs in New York, Los Angeles, or anywhere, really), he is thinking of what it’s like to “meander to the gym.” Less actively active and more about dressing the liminal moments in one’s life.

Ross pointed at an open body French terry hoodie that is meant to “move around in” and has “enough drama but with ease.” There’s also a deconstructed fishtail parka that has no lining but a removable storm jacket that “gives it some structure,” and a small utility bag that is “somewhere between a locket and a harness.” “I wanted to play on these tropes of masculinity to find where to question and affirm,” Ross said.

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