Business attire is subject to strict observation, at least when it is worn by women. While the suit has become an indisputable uniform for men and, in its standardized form, offers no grounds for discourse, the exact opposite applies to women. “It’s too sexy. It’s not feminine enough. You must not be a fashion doll. No matter which aesthetic they choose, women hear all of this,” explained designers Emilia Pfohl and Nan Li, who have dedicated themselves entirely to the topic of seriousness this season. As usual for the brand, a truckload of irony should be enough to balance out this discrepancy. “Playboy was the best possible partner for us to implement this topic. Hardly any other brand stands more for sexiness, humor, and also prejudice in pop culture.”
A perfect clash to flirt with office culture: a bikini with a tie, white shirts paired with micro shorts, satin dressing gowns that functioned as overcoats. Namilia’s imagery is bold, and always hits a nerve. This is impressively demonstrated by members of its community, who often wear the most daring looks from head to toe. Chain mail dresses with countless Playboy key chains were among the favorite looks of both designers, who see them as a symbol of empowerment. “We want to give our customers the opportunity to break their own boundaries and break away from norms.”
Even though the collection was presented without their customary theatrics, it was not at all quiet. Lots of leather elements, in either black or bubblegum pink, racing-inspired silhouettes, and Y2K charm delivered the message, while unexpected details emphasized their craftsmanship. Pfohl and Li are increasingly incorporating more complex elements into their aesthetic. While a few seasons ago, their iconic skirts were somewhat rudimentary in design, inspired by well-known luxury handbags, they are now much more detailed and constructed. “Of course it was a struggle. We calculate and design so that as many people as possible can afford our designs. But all these details ultimately make all the difference. We don’t make fun of our references; we want to celebrate them and transform them into high fashion.”
