A new traveling exhibition dedicated to Peñafiel’s work, “Wearable Sculptures,” opened at the Lemaire flagship in Paris in March, alongside a limited series of purses designed by Peñafiel in his signature sensual shapes and sleek molded leather: a bust, a shell, and a castanet. The exhibition, which will go on to Seoul and Tokyo, is the first retrospective on Peñafiel’s artisanal techniques and highlights their importance in the Lemaire wardrobe, as well as the need to invigorate fashion as a space for creative expression. It features his evocative and handcrafted pieces, like hats and masks, from past and present collections, as well as prototypes and unique sculptures.
“During our early working sessions and trips, I got to know Peñafiel as a reserved man who spoke elliptically about his creative process, but had a deeply intuitive and experimental approach to materials,” Tran says.
There is a sensuality in both Peñafiel and Lemaire’s work: A shared celebration of the body, and an interrogation of functionality and flesh. “A mysterious duality emerges when the sensual curves of Peñafiel’s bags are paired with the humble lines of Lemaire garments,” says Tran. “They are like a magic lamp, an object of erotic projection that stimulates touch and imagination. His pieces are outer shells, objects of desire, conversation starters, and magical—and sometimes bawdy—amulets, which serve as humorous and sensual reminders of the power of the haptic, or ‘touching with the eyes.’”
Photo: Clement Vayssieres
