In the midst of an endless TikTok scroll, I came across a video from New York-based influencer Brigette Pheloung that caught my attention. “This is a heatless curler method,” she said, grimacing with what appeared to be at least 50 pink, chunky snap clips neatly clasped around each lock of hair. A wave of questions ran through my mind: How long did this take? What will the curls look like? How heavy was this? And crucially: Is this going to rip her hair out?
It didn’t take me long to find answers on the app itself. “This took four hours… and this is just one side,” fellow influencer Sabryna Salmon cried to her audience—whereas Pheloung speedily raced through the routine in 20 minutes flat. As for the end result? Tight crimps for Salmon and an underwhelming lack of springiness for Pheloung. I still couldn’t find the answer to my last query. Would repeated use completely wreck your hair, and is it safe for the average TikTok viewer to try out? I turned to hairstylist and Color Wow’s international creative director Dom Seeley to find out whether this viral trend is worth the stress, and which heatless curling methods not only work but are safe for hair.
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Professional hairstylists see a lot of different micro-trends—typically in and out of the beauty consciousness in a flash. Some actually work and may become a staple step in our routines, but for the most part… not so much. “My honest initial thoughts were that this heatless curler method is not the most cost effective, or sustainable option,” says Seeley. “Not only do you have to buy a lot of clips, but you can also probably get the same result much faster with a heat tool.”
On straighter hair types, it’s clear that without additional manipulation, simply adding multiple clips to dry hair does not work. “It’s the same issue for those with super-straight hair when trying to use a Dyson AirWrap or Shark styler on freshly dried hair,” Seeley adds. In hairdresser terms, to effectively curl hair “you have to change the hydrogen bond inside the hair,” which can be achieved when using heat or when the hair is wet. Essentially, the hair underneath each clip would need to dry into a new shape, which when set can be long-lasting.
However, the method may be more effective for those who have thicker and more textured hair. “When reviewing videos of this trend, I saw those [people] achieved really interesting results, and the crimps were unlike anything I’ve seen a hot tool create,” Seeley continues, adding, “All factors considered, I’m still not convinced that it’s the most useful heatless curling method.” As for the metal clips, you need to be mindful that they’re also placed very close together in order to achieve the desired curl, which will cause external damage to the cuticle layer.
Heatless curling methods can give your hair a much needed break from harsher hair tools that, when used incorrectly or too often, can permanently damage the hair. “Soft, heatless curling tools that are coated with silk and satin are actually very healthy for the hair because they don’t cause much friction. To get a clear, defined curl, enrich the hair with nourishing products,” says Seeley, who recommends Color Wow’s Money Mist as a leave-in conditioner to prep the hair, and Color Wow’s Xtra Large Bombshell Volumizer to add texture. It’s a stress-free way to achieve the perfect curls—all without damaging your hair.
