Emollients aim to smooth and lubricate the outermost layer of our epidermis and include ingredients such as ceramides and silicones. Humectants, he says, are ingredients that absorb water, such as hyaluronic acid, glycerin, honey, and lactic acid. And occlusives are ingredients that prevent your skin’s moisture loss and support the skin barrier, and those include waxes, petrolatum, and oils.
Henry says that you’ll want to look for something that rebuilds the skin barrier, relieves irritation, and prevents further damage, but also something that is gentle for even the most sensitive skin. She says something like Kiehl’s Ultra Facial Cream is suitable for all skin types and contains glycerin for deep long-lasting hydration. We also love the EltaMD Barrier Renewal Complex or the Biossance Squalane + Probiotic Gel Moisturizer.
Exfoliate With a Humectant
Exfoliating isn’t all that bad for dry skin—as long as you do it properly. Belkin recommends you consider gentle chemical exfoliators such as lactic acid (personal faves of ours include Paula’s Choice Skin Perfecting 6% Mandelic Acid + 2% Lactic Acid Liquid Exfoliant), which is both an alpha hydroxy acid and a humectant, which will absorb water and increase your skin’s natural ability to bind moisture.
But you’ll want to stay away from any forms of physical exfoliation, which he says will further disrupt the skin barrier, and products with glycolic and salicylic acid as those may cause more irritation to dry skin.
Avoid Alcohol, Fragrance, and Other Harsh Ingredients
“Dry skin means the skin barrier is somewhat disrupted,” explains Belkin. “This means that environmental allergens and irritants can cause more damage and reaction. Therefore, known irritants should be avoided for sure.”
He lists tea tree oil, menthol, alcohol, acetone, fragrance, and botanical oils as some of the ingredients to be cautious of. Henry agrees and adds parabens, sulfates, any forms of retinoids or retinol, benzoyl peroxide, and other harsh exfoliants to the list of things to avoid.
Don’t Overwash Your Face
While Kim does say that the type of cleanser does matter more than the frequency of you washing your face (“I recommend using a gentle cleanser every night,” he says), you still need to be mindful of doing too much.
“You for sure can overwash your face,” says Belkin. He recommends avoiding harsh soaps, like foaming cleansers that tend to be more drying, and avoid any with strong actives like the ingredients listed above. You’ll want to stick to oil-, balm-, or cream-based cleansers that are also gentle on the skin.
In-Office Treatments
And for when you’re looking for a stronger treatment option, there are in-office solutions you can turn to. Belkin says skin boosters, which are hyaluronic acid-based products injected directly into the dermis for hydration, will increase humectant levels in the dermis. These boosters won’t increase volume in your face like fillers, but they will give skin a dewy finish. But if you stick to the at-home tips above, you won’t really need this unless you want to try it out. “Treating dry skin is best done with gentle skincare habits at home,” he says.”
