Every season, Greta Constantine’s Kirk Pickersgill looks to a specific location to inspire his new assortment of gala gowns. For fall, the designer found direction within the walls of the Museum of Contemporary Art in Toronto. “I stumbled upon an exhibition by Tishan Hsu,” said Pickersgill. “His paintings are very conceptual and obscure.” Pickersgill began to ponder if he, too, could take a similar approach with his own work—finding more unexpected silhouettes and fabrics that make his elegant assortment of evening attire feel a little more forward-thinking. A style that’s less flashy uptown ladies who lunch, more sophisticated women who are stealthily-chic.
The direction resulted in a freshened collection of party attire that also felt much more pared-back for the designer, who typically leans into bright colors and lots of ruffles. This season, for instance, he did gowns like a high-neck, long-sleeve style in butter yellow that was ruched in and draped all the right places. A silky red gown with a built-in cape also brought the drama, without being too complicated. “What people want is that sense of comfort,” said Pickersgill of gala dressing. “They don’t want all the fuss and muss.”
There certainly was a sense of ease in his shapes this season. His long maxi gowns were done in fanciful silver foils, but the garment itself was extremely easy to wear; He enjoyed finding that balance. “It’s pulled away from the body, but still has that drama aspect to it,” he said. The most refreshing offerings of the bunch, though, were his foray into more mens-y shapes, like the pinstriped jumpsuits, or separates like a formal crepe T-shirt, which was cut on the asymmetrical bias and worn with dress trousers. “It’s easy and sophisticated—put on your earrings and you’re ready to go,” said Pickersgill.
