If you’ve been paying attention to the skin-care industry, you know that Korea is at the forefront of advanced technology, so it should come as no surprise that much of the research on exosomes’ skin-enhancing properties is coming out of Korean labs. Dr. Park shares that exosomes are incredibly popular amongst skincare aficionados in Korea. That includes exosome therapy, in-office treatments incorporating the little messengers. “Typically, the concentrated serum is applied after laser or microneedling, allowing the exosome serum to be deeply absorbed into the skin,” says Dr. Park.
In addition to helping your skin look firmer, smoother, and clearer, that application of exosomes helps reduce procedure downtime. “Exosomes possess anti-inflammatory properties that help calm irritated skin and improve hydration by enhancing the skin’s barrier function and helping retain moisture and hydration levels,” explains Dr. Reszko. Thankfully, you don’t need to fly to Seoul to get the treatment—in recent years, exosome therapy has made its way stateside; all of the experts featured in this article offer exosome therapy at their respective practices and praise its powers.
Exosome therapy is the most effective way to treat your skin with this trending ingredient—the exosomes used in-office are at their purest, most potent state, kept in deep freezes or refrigerators to keep them active until they’re applied to skin that’s just been damaged by a laser or microneedling device, making it extra receptive to topical ingredients. Conversely, any exosomes in skincare products have to be shelf stable. It’s also worth noting that the exosomes used by aesthetic providers are derived from human sources (typically mesenchymal stem cells from umbilical cords, amniotic fluid, or placenta), while over-the-counter formulas use human-derived, plant-based, or lab-made exosomes.
Don’t let these differences deter you from trying exosome skin-care products: “Although they’re less powerful than exosome treatments that would be used at a doctor’s office following resurfacing treatment, results from exosome products can be seen fairly quickly with daily use,” says Dr. Alemi. Like a professional-grade chemical peel versus at-home exfoliating pads, both forms of exosome skin treatment will help you reach your goal, with over-the-counter products just taking a little more research and effort on your part. Of course, we’ve done a lot of the research on exosome skincare for you—in addition to finding the top formulas to try, we’re sharing expert tips on what to look for in a product and how to max out its benefits.
- Why We Love It: This serum is powered by a host of regenerative medicine all-star ingredients, including mesenchymal stem cells, exosomes, and growth factors, as well as peptides, amino acids, probiotics, and tremella mushroom—an extract that’s said to be 10 times more hydrating than hyaluronic acid. Not only does this formula help plump up fine lines, it noticeably restores deeper layers, too, helping to lift and firm for bouncier, more youthful-looking skin.
- Key Ingredients: Human stem cell-derived exosomes, tremella mushroom extract, peptides
- Size: 1 fl. oz.
- Why We Love It: Thanks to the inclusion of exosome-coated “liquid microneedles,” this spicule serum can penetrate more deeply than your average topical formula, pushing niacinamide, chemical exfoliants, amino acids, and more nutrients into the skin to promote cellular turnover and deeper repair. As the dead cells slough off, you’ll see glowier skin with a smoother, more even texture and smaller-looking pores.
- Key Ingredients: Lactobacillus-derived exosomes, niacinamide, spicules, PHA
- Size: 1.01 fl. oz.
- Why We Love It: This budget-friendly pick combines exosomes derived from cica with peptides to promote new collagen production for firmer and more resilient skin. Prickly pear extract and hyaluronic acid gently exfoliate and hydrate, respectively, leaving the complexion looking noticeably fresher and more luminous.
- Key Ingredients: Cica-derived exosomes, sodium hyaluronate, peptides
- Size: 1 fl. oz.
- Why We Love It: A dropper full of this luxe, refreshing serum is all you need for full coverage of your face, neck, and decolleté, and it sinks in rapidly with zero residue to infuse your skin with reparative exosome-like peptides and antioxidants. You’ll love the hydrated glow it creates—but you’ll really be hooked once the formula starts fading deeper lines.
- Key Ingredients: Lab synthesized exosomes, vitamin E, bergamot fruit oil
- Size: 1 fl. oz.
- Why We Love It: There are a few major companies producing professional-grade exosome products, including Rion Aesthetics—the parent company of [ plated ]. As soon as you apply this formula, the hyaluronic acid in it will make your skin dewier and plumper. But over time, you’ll see a reduction in fine lines, wrinkles, dark spots, and redness as the effects of the platelet-sourced exosomes take effect. The packaging may be petite, but there’s over a trillion exosomes in it, and a small amount of the soothing, juicy serum goes a long way.
- Key Ingredients: Human platelet-derived exosomes, hyaluronic acid, arginine
- Size: 0.5 fl. oz.
- Why We Love It: This rich yet lightweight balm glides on to instantly calm stressed, inflamed skin and repair the moisture barrier with ectoin and squalane, while biomimetic plant exosomes and peptides work to smooth fine lines and fade dark spots. Though this formula is considered a retinol alternative due to all its actives, it makes for a great companion to retinoids if you use them—it’ll help soothe the redness and flakiness associated with the “retinol uglies.”
- Key Ingredients: Bitter melon-derived exosomes, ectoin, peptides
- Size: 1 fl. oz.
- Why We Love It: For those considering—or using—exosome scalp injections for hair loss, this silky serum can be applied in tandem between professional treatments. It combines garlic-derived exosomes (don’t worry, there’s no odor!) with peptides and biotin to promote thicker, healthier growth in a liquid-y treatment that provides subtle volume without leaving hair greasy or sticky.
- Key Ingredients: Garlic-derived exosomes, rosemary leaf extract, niacinamide, biotin
- Size: 2.02 fl. oz.
Everything You Need to Know:
How to Incorporate Exosomes Into Your Skin-Care Routine
First, consider the formula. The most crucial ingredient in any exosome skincare product is, of course, the exosomes. The majority of research on exosomes and their efficacy has been conducted on those derived from human stem cells, so if that doesn’t turn you off, seek out a formula using human-derived exosomes. It’s even better if the product comes with clinical studies, as well as data regarding the source of its exosomes, which makes all the difference. “For example, exosomes derived from young, healthy mesenchymal stem cells (MSCs), are rich in regenerative, anti-inflammatory, and pro-repair factors,” says Dr. Reszko. If your product’s exosomes are from older, damaged cells, you likely won’t get the results you’re seeking.
If you aren’t super keen on the idea of using human-derived exosomes on your skin, there are plant-based alternatives. While it seems questionable that amino acids, proteins, and other material from plants could jumpstart collagen product in human cells, there is some fledgling research that shows it’s possible. A study of rose stem cell-derived exosomes showed they offered several benefits, including anti-inflammatory properties, accelerated wound healing, enhanced fibroblast production, and decreased melanin production. “While the source of exosomes is important, this study indicates that plant-derived exosomes may also offer significant advantages for skin health,” says Dr. Park.
Beyond the exosomes, consider the rest of the formula, too—if you want a boost in hydration, look for hyaluronic acid; seek out squalane and other lipids if you want to support barrier repair—and once you’re ready to apply it, start with a clean foundation. “If using exosomes on your skin, it should be the first product applied after cleansing for maximal absorption,” says Dr. Levine. “If applying to the hair, it is best to apply to a dry scalp.” Ideally, you’ll have recently exfoliated to help the exosomes penetrate the skin; Dr. Alemi notes that you’ll get even deeper absorption if you pair your application with an at-home microneedling device. “Exosomes are inefficient at penetrating an intact skin barrier, so have limited efficacy when applied topically alone,” he says. “At-home microneedling gives the exosomes a route of entry into the skin cells and significantly increases efficacy.”
After your exosome formula has fully absorbed, follow the product’s instructions, only combining with other actives if recommended, advises Dr. Reszko. “Because they are often unstable and can be easily deactivated by certain ingredients—including acids like AHAs, BHAs, vitamin C (ascorbic acid), retinoic acid (retinol), and even some oils—it’s important to use them thoughtfully within your skincare routine,” she says. The safest bet is to reserve those potent products for your evening regimen and use exosomes in the morning, completing your regimen with a simple moisturizer and SPF.
Are exosomes better than retinol?
Comparing exosomes to retinol is like comparing apples and oranges. They’re both good for skin, but they’re not the same, and one isn’t inherently better. “They are both used in skincare for different reasons, with exosomes focusing on cellular communication and regeneration, while retinol primarily works by promoting cell turnover,” says Dr. Reszko. However, our experts note that they can complement each other nicely, with exosomes helping to support retinol’s efforts while combating its often deleterious effects on the skin barrier. If you find that you can’t tolerate retinol, exosomes can be a skin-friendly way to get more youthful-looking skin—just make sure you’re incorporating a chemical exfoliant into your regimen for cellular renewal.
- Dr. Jennifer Levine is a double-board-certified plastic surgeon in New York, NY.
- Dr. Sean Alemi is a double-board-certified facial plastic and reconstructive surgeon in New York, NY.
- Dr. Eunice Park is a double-board-certified facial plastic and reconstructive surgeon and the founder of AIREM in New York.
- Dr. Anetta Reszko is a board-certified dermatologist in New York, NY.
