It’s not often that I begin a runway review describing something that was missing from a collection, but Alaïa’s winter/spring 2025 show was anything but ordinary. Intriguingly, the pieces were entirely devoid of zippers and buttons. “Some pieces seem suspended, held in position by imperceptible internal structures, like magic tricks,” the brand explained in a statement. Now that’s some serious fashion sorcery.
Creative Director Pieter Mulier outdid himself with this light-as-air collection that used a mixture of cashmere, fine knit, sculpted poplin, and silk taffeta. “This collection is about honoring tradition alongside modernity,” Mulier said in a statement “It is a celebration of an American ideology of dress, and through that, of a spirit that can unite New York and Paris—the body in motion, liberated. As Alaïa always has been.” Scroll down to learn more about the memorable show.
The Venue
The Solomon R. Guggenheim Museum, which was built in 1959 and designed by Frank Lloyd Wright, played host to Alaïa’s winter/spring 2025 show. Surprisingly, it was the first time a runway show was held in the landmark’s iconic rotunda. The brand explained its long-running connection to the museum in a statement: “In 2000, Alaïa pieces were placed in conversation with works by Andy Warhol at the Guggenheim Museum’s temporary space in SoHo—an exchange of art and fashion that was unprecedented.”
The Front Row
Rihanna is extremely selective when it comes to fashion shows she attends, so all eyes were on her when she showed up at Alaïa. Other notable guests included Liv Tyler, Naomi Campbell, Amber Valletta, Hari Nef, Tracee Ellis Ross, Law Roach, Paloma Elsesser, and Lewis Hamilton.
My Favorite Runway Looks
The entire collection was stunning, but I managed to narrow it down to my top five looks. I simply adore the frothy confections, the pastel colors, the innovative silhouettes, and the overall minimalist vibe. My top pick was a baby pink number that Alaïa described in a press release as an “asymmetrical molded-knitted bandeau top worn with a voluminous knitted padded skirt featuring a large tight belt and exploding volume into bouncing godets.”