Runway

Blow-up: Outrageous Volume Is Just One Thing That Jean Paul Gaultier and the New Guy at the Brand, Duran Lantink, Agree On

Duran Lantink, fall 2023 ready-to-wear

Photo: Daniele Oberrauch / Gorunway.com

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Jean Paul Gaultier x Pandemonia, spring 2020 couture

Photo: Alessandro Lucioni / Gorunway.com

An heir to fashion’s perpetual “enfant terrible” Jean Paul Gaultier (who retired in 2020) has finally been named. It is Duran Lantink, a 37-year-old Dutchman with a cheeky sense of humor and an eye for exaggerated silhouettes. “I’m really about shape and forms, and trying to create new ideas,” the designer recently told Luke Leitch.

Lantink is also a repurposer, one who is alert to the potential in existing garments and materials. This kind of thinking similarly animated many of Gaultier’s early collections. Gaultier magicked straw placemats into dresses, and proposed tea strainers and copper pot scrubbers as jewelry. It was while feeding his cat that he got the idea of converting metal cans into bracelets; subsequently they became part of the house iconography and fragrance packaging.

Related to the elevation of everyday items into extraordinary objets is an appreciation for a lived-in look. When Gaultier launched couture for spring 1997, the collection included looks made from his own upcycled jeans. In an interview with Fantastic Man, Lantink declared his love of “worn-in clothes.”

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Jean Paul Gaultier, spring 2004 couture

Photo: Marcio Madeira

Duran Lantink spring 2024 readytowear

Duran Lantink, spring 2024 ready-to-wear

Photo: Filippo Fior / Gorunway.com

Still, the most visual link between Lantink and Gaultier is their shared preference for blown-up looks. Where the Dutch designer molds pliable foam forms, the Frenchman preferred hot air. He closed his famous Cyberpunk collection of fall 1995 with puffed hats that were inflated by the hand-held bonnet hair dryers—of the sort his grandmother used to use. The designs, he said, were “flat, and when you put the air—poof—it becomes like an erection.” Lantink has a lot to build on at Gaultier.

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Jean Paul Gaultier, fall 1995 ready-to-wear

Photo: Condé Nast Archive

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Duran Lantink, fall 2024 ready-to-wear

Photo: Umberto Fratini / Gorunway.com

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Jean Paul Gaultier, fall 1995 ready-to-wear

Photo: Condé Nast Archive

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Jean Paul Gaultier, spring 2002 couture

Photo: Antoine de Parseval / Shoot Digital for Style.com

Duran Lantink fall 2023 readytowear

Duran Lantink, fall 2023 ready-to-wear

Photo: Daniele Oberrauch / Gorunway.com

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Jean Paul Gaultier, fall 2013 couture

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Duran Lantink, fall 2025 ready-to-wear

Photo: Umberto Fratini / Gorunway.com

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Jean Paul Gaultier, spring 1998 couture

Photo: Condé Nast Archive

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Duran Lantink, fall 2025 ready-to-wear

Photo: Umberto Fratini / Gorunway.com

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Jean Paul Gaultier, spring 2001 couture

Photo: JB Villareal / Shoot Digital for Style.com

Duran Lantink spring 2024 readytowear

Duran Lantink, spring 2024 ready-to-wear

Photo: Filippo Fior / Gorunway.com

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Jean Paul Gaultier, spring 2003 ready-to-wear

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Duran Lantink fall 2023 readytowear

Duran Lantink, fall 2023 ready-to-wear

Photo: Daniele Oberrauch / Gorunway.com

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Jean Paul Gaultier, spring 1997 ready-to-wear

Photo: Condé Nast Archive

Duran Lantink fall 2023 readytowear

Duran Lantink, fall 2023 ready-to-wear

Photo: Daniele Oberrauch / Gorunway.com

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Jean Paul Gaultier, fall 2002 ready-to-wear

Photo: Antoine de Parseval / Shoot Digital for Style.com

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Duran Lantink, fall 2021 ready-to-wear

Photo: Abel Minnee / Courtesy of Duran Lantink

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Jean Paul Gaultier,fall 2017 couture

Photo: Yannis Vlamos / Indigital.tv

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Duran Lantink, fall 2024 ready-to-wear

Umberto Fratini / Gorunway.com

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Madonna on her Blonde Ambition tour, July 1990.

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Duran Lantink, spring 2025 ready-to-wear

Photo: Daniele Oberrauch / Gorunway.com

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Iman for Jean Paul Gaultier designed cone bra

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Jean Paul Gaultier, fall 1995 ready-to-wear

Photo: Condé Nast Archive

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Duran Lantink, spring 2025 ready-to-wear

Photo: Daniele Oberrauch / Gorunway.com

Jean Paul Gaultier fall 2002 readytowear

Jean Paul Gaultier, fall 2002 ready-to-wear

Photo: Antoine de Parseval / Shoot Digital for Style.com

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Duran Lantink, fall 2024 ready-to-wear

Umberto Fratini / Gorunway.com

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Jean Paul Gaultier, fall 2003 ready-to-wear

Photo: Marcio Madeira

Duran Lantink spring 2024 readytowear

Duran Lantink, spring 2024 ready-to-wear

Photo: Filippo Fior / Gorunway.com

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Jean Paul Gaultier, spring 2003 ready-to-wear

Photo: Shoot Digital for Style.com

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Duran Lantink, fall 2021 ready-to-wear

Photo: Abel Minnee / Courtesy of Duran Lantink

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Jean Paul Gaultier, spring 1994 ready-to-wear

Photo: Condé Nast Archive

Duran Lantink spring 2024 readytowear

Duran Lantink, spring 2024 ready-to-wear

Photo: Filippo Fior / Gorunway.com


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