Soy milk, once the reigning alternative, has long been associated with, shall we say, a particular brand of hippie lifestyle. As Tariro Makoni, author of the popular Substack Trademarked, noted in her exploration of “quiet luxury milk,” soy has always been progressive, signaling “an awareness of both the environment and plant-based lifestyles.” In the mid-aughts, almond milk dethroned soy’s non-dairy domination, reflecting the status-driven rise of wellness culture, as Makoni writes. While it is still arguably the most prevalent non dairy milk, mass-produced by brands like Blue Diamond and Silk, almond milk’s reputation has soured due to reports of its excessive water usage and heavy environmental impact, as well as the reported murky additives that cancel out its health halo. And so it’s inspired other nuts to get milked, if you will.
That’s where the new generation comes in. For Táche founder Roxana Saidi, pistachios are the obvious choice. “Pistachio trees have a 75% smaller water footprint than almonds,” she tells Vogue, and the richness of the pistachio itself is what makes the texture so naturally velvety—not from added industrial seed oils, like some of its counterparts. Saidi’s appreciation for pistachios goes beyond nutrition and sustainability, though. “My father and I shared a love for pistachios,” she says, “one that was rooted in both heritage and appreciation for their cultural significance.” With the non-dairy space’s evolution, Táche became the perfect opportunity to reintroduce this luxurious nut in a modern and meaningful way.
Beyond pistachios, macadamia and cashew milks have carved out their own niches, while lesser-known alternatives like pecan and walnut are finding their footing. For those avoiding nuts altogether, Lattini’s sunflower seed milk offers an allergen-free, eco-friendly option.
Of course, no conversation about alt-milks is complete without mentioning oat milk. Oatly, the Swedish brand known for originating the product in the ’90s, tends to be the first name in people’s minds. Oat is the arena where more innovation seems to be at play. These days, competitors like Minor Figures and Willa’s are giving oat an upgrade, with elevated yet playful packaging and shorter ingredient lists.
Still, oat milk isn’t perfect—it’s not great for the planet, and its nutrition profile is up for debate. That’s where fermentation offers an interesting solution. Koatji, a brand founded and tested by Michelin-star chefs, combines the familiar sweetness of oat milk with the umami depth of koij rice, a fermented ingredient widely used in miso, soy sauce, and saké. “In plant based milk, it offers better creaminess and improved digestibility—without artificial additives,” says Rasmus Kliim, Koatji’s head of research and development, who previously worked as the head chef at Restaurant Radio in Copenhagen. “Flavor and performance is everything,” he says, reflecting on Koatji’s latte-ready texture. “It’s the key to standing out in a market filled with alternative milks.”
