After earning absolute power over Japan’s feuding factions, Tokugawa Ieyasu became the island nation’s first shogun, and in the early 17th century he consolidated his political control in Edo—now Tokyo—away from the emperor’s longtime residence in Kyoto. A walking highway was quickly developed with 69 resting stations; the Nakasendo—which translates to “Central Mountain Route”—allowed dignitaries, from samurai to philosophers, to travel between the country’s two most important strongholds via a series of navigable alpine passes.
Today, as Japan continues to break tourism records, charting higher and higher numbers of international travelers each month, this old road has found new relevance not as the important transit artery it once was, but as the perfect slow-travel alternative to the whirr of the bullet train that zips throngs of travelers from Tokyo to Kyoto.
Here, we’ve distilled the 330-mile walking trail down to its most compelling highlights—from unmissable half-day hikes through snow-capped vistas and charming villages, to evenings at some of the best accommodation, both traditional and contemporary, in the country. Consider this your CliffsNotes guide to exploring some of Japan’s most easily accessible off-the-beaten-path experiences—all with a luxurious twist, of course.
Day 1: Karuizawa
Photo: Getty Images
