It was the push alert that sent shockwaves through my group chats: Last Thursday, President Trump threatened a 200% tariff on European wines and spirits as the latest retaliatory measure in his administration’s ever-escalating trade war.
Should the tax be put into place (which could happen as soon as this spring), the cost of whiling away an afternoon with a bottle of Provence Rosé could become a much more expensive proposition—to say nothing of devastating an already troubled industry. (Between the rise of non-alcoholic drinks and pre-mixed cocktails, last year saw an overall downturn in more traditional wine and spirits sales.)
Yet the news has put a spotlight on American wines, a category long misunderstood by funk-forward natural-wine drinkers like me.
“The quality in US wine, especially if you know where to look, is definitely no different than in Europe,” says Jeff DiLorenzo, who leads domestic buying at New York City’s Chambers Street Wines. “Most people have preconceived notions of their preferences, but it does feel like there are more and more outstanding producers in the US that people don’t really give a chance.”
As he tells me, however, it helps to approach an American wine not as a direct corollary to well-known European varieties, but rather as its own thing. “It’s like two different cheeses from two different areas,” DiLorenzo says. “There are nuances that are going to make it distinct—but I think the quality is on par, so you can find something that’s equally enjoyable.”
In that spirit, below, DiLorenzo breaks down American wines worth knowing—politics and tariffs aside.
If you’re looking for white wine…
“If you typically go for Sancerre, there are some great Sauvignon Blancs coming from California—I really like the Bedrock Sauvignon Blanc from Sonoma County, which has the flinty, sleek mineral side you often find with Sancerre. It’s elegant, crisp, dry, and generally runs around $30 retail in New York, which is about what you’d pay for an average Sancerre.
Another store favorite is the Elizabeth Spencer North Coast Sauvignon Blanc from Mendocino, which is a great value at around $20 and has a bit more citrus fruit, but is still crisp, dry, and refreshing.
Chenin blanc is one of my favorite grapes, especially coming from the Loire Valley and particularly from Anjou. I’m pretty discerning when it comes to Chenin, but I’ve found the Haarmeyer St. Rey En Foudre Chenin Blanc from Clarksburg, California, to be one of my favorite wines from anywhere. It’s chiseled and structured, has that waxy texture, honeyed aroma, and laser-beam acidity that I love in Chenin. Also, when you can find it, the Sandlands Chenin is worth seeking out.”
If you’re looking for rosé…
“For a light, pale, and dry Provence rosé, there are a good number of options, but I especially love the Matthiasson Rosé from Napa, which year after year hits all the right notes: nice balanced fruit, great acidity, incredibly fresh, and oh-so-easy to drink. I actually prefer it to most Provence rosés.”
If you’re looking for red wine…
“Many people have drawn comparisons between Burgundy in France and Oregon’s Willamette Valley, as they lie along the same latitude and have similarities in climate. Burgundy is known for Pinot noir and Chardonnay, and there is no shortage of great Willamette Valley Pinot noirs and Chardonnays available. One of my personal favorites is the Fossil & Fawn Pinot Noir, which is a phenomenal value and is medium-light in body, with that forest-floor earthiness you get from some great Burgundy Pinots. Other Oregon producers of note are Cameron, Kelley Fox, and the Eyrie Vineyards, all making incredible wines that I believe are on par with any high-end Burgundy.
