Introducing Addressed, a weekly column where we’ll, ahem, address the joys (and tribulations!) of getting dressed. We’ll look at runway trends, real-life trends, talk to people whose style we love, and most importantly, answer your own fashion queries. Download the Vogue App and find our Style Chat section to submit your question.
Every week, we get a list of things that people are searching for online—sometimes it can help fine-tune an idea or an approach to a story. Last week, a lot of people were thinking about how to style cargo pants, and as it turns out, I am in the midst of a cargo pants love affair of my own. How serendipitous!
If you’re a fashion fan, then perhaps the mere mention of cargo pants conjures images of Nicolas Ghesquière’s actually iconic spring 2002 Balenciaga collection. The lineup consisted of colorblocked cargo trousers worn extra baggy but cropped at the ankle, paired with sequined or patchworked boho tops that seemed like they had come out of someone’s fabulous trunk of vintage costumes. The Balenciaga look exemplifies two crucial things: First, the fit of the pants. I am of the mind that cargo pants should be slightly slouchy; and so the best place to purchase a standard green pair is from the menswear department of, say, Gap or J.Crew, and then size up one or two sizes depending on how low you feel your low rise can go. I am of the mind that these sort of all-American classic items must be purchased from the all-American classic store instead of the high fashion label that just “takes it on” for a season. A: Because it’s cheaper. B: Because it’s genuine. Keep in mind I’ve said the word “standard,” and so that means the pants must not have a skinny or narrow leg. (A horseshoe shape is probably ok, because it’s big). If the silhouette is exaggerated enough, it will make every part of your look seem more special—even if it’s just a white button-down shirt.
The second crucial fact to be gleaned from this 23-year old collection is the way that the look was built from two items that stood at opposite ends of the aesthetic spectrum—one, sturdy and utilitarian; and the other, romantic and impractical. (There was a feeling that the sequinned tops were so old as to be disintegrating). And so, cargo pants with sheer gauzy blouses, shiny lurex tops, or even your favorite barely-there going out top from the aughts will always feel grounded by the pants.
Cargo pants had a bit of a moment on the spring 2024 runways, but the truth is that they’re as timeless as a good pair of jeans, and it’s why some designers keep coming back to them over and over again regardless of the trend cycle. If the idea of wearing the basic green cargos gives you the ick, then there are as many fashion versions as you can dream of. Go for a bright color like Christopher John Rogers, who loves a great wide cargo pant, and pair it with something equally bold. Or go for texture, like the terrific pair shown on the Sacai runway this season, covered in oversized paillettes. It’s so glamorous, all you need is a black t-shirt to head out the door. The fashion cargo—in sequins or in beautiful floral velvet or corduroy like at Collina Strada—is also a way to ease into style. Either you keep it very minimal at the top or you double down on the maximalism, just like how Hillary Taymour does on her runway. “I love wearing cargo pants because they’re as easy to wear as sweatpants, but they’re polished enough to wear to more formal events,” she explains via email from Paris. She often layers them underneath ruffled dresses and skirts, or her signature skirt-belts—the contrast between soft and utilitarian makes for something more effortless.
As for shoes, well, this is where your personality really shines through. (As I write this, I’ve realized that’s actually the basis of my shoe manifesto). There is something very Carrie Bradshaw about a slouchy cargo pant, a dainty blouse, and an equally dainty pair of gold strappy sandals, but they’d likely look just as cool with a pair of flat sneakers like Keds or Converse that play off the aforementioned American sportswear angle. I’ll add that, in general, I favor a pointy, almond, or even a square toe with a wide leg because I feel the round toe abruptly ends the silhouette. Though of course, that’s exactly why someone else may love it!
