The Most Surprising Accessory at Paris Fashion Week Was Bras

It feels like I’ve spent my entire life feeling worried that my bra is showing. I’ve even gone to extreme lengths such as using body tape to secure my pesky bra straps to the inside of my tops. For so long, it has felt like bras were meant to be felt but not seen.

But then, at Paris Fashion Week, I couldn’t help but notice exposed bras were everywhere. At Miu Miu, models wore cone bras, their peaks jutting out from long-sleeve shirts and tank tops for a more angular appearance. At Sarah Burton’s debut for Givenchy, exposed undergarments were proudly displayed beneath netted dresses. Valentino experimented with lace turtleneck bodysuits worn with stockings and satin bralettes layered on top. Vaquera took a more literal and absurdist approach with supersized bras turned into off-the-shoulder tunics. At the shows, guests like Zoë Kravitz wore dresses with lace details mimicking the appearance of a bra peeking out from a slip worn too low.

The presence of bras felt particularly prevalent—just as much as their absence. Many sheer dresses and tops were also seen on the runway with nothing worn underneath. At Rohk, a model walked out with one of the brand’s signature trenches tied around her waist, exposing the naked bust of her torso. At Duran Lantink, a viral moment featured a model strutting with a prosthetic chest that made them appear topless.

The message seemed to be that you could wear a bra, or you could not—either way, there’s no shame in either choice. It was all about putting it all out there. Let your bra strap slip off your shoulder! Wear a lace dress with nothing underneath! Hell, wear a big bra if you want—and nothing else!

It’d be easy to suggest that perhaps creative directors were trying to send a hyper-feminist message, but it actually felt more about freedom at large, given the current state of the world. Everyone is talking about what we should be doing, what we could be doing, or what we absolutely can’t do. Designers like Miuccia Prada seemed to suggest that we should just do whatever we want instead. Let it all out there—literally—because what do we have to lose?

As for how this trend will actually percolate come fall, you can expect Miu Miu to somehow make the cone bra mainstream. The garment, which originated in the 1950s, was considered controversial for its irregular appearance when Madonna brought it back in the ’90s. TBH, Miu Miu is the only brand I can think of with the influence to make everyone start wearing them en masse.