“Aquatic fragrances are designed to capture the fresh, breezy essence of water, whether it’s the ocean, a cool lake, or a misty morning,” says Nicole Mancini, principal perfumer at international flavoring and fragrance company dsm-firmenich.
The concept is straightforward, and getting a whiff of an aquatic fragrance would make you believe executing it is simple—these scents are often light and crisp, with an inherent effortlessness that’s not as common in other perfume categories. But nothing could be farther from the truth: After all, water itself is unscented, so what’s really being harnessed here is the idea of a smell. “Perfumers recreate its presence through synthetic molecules that mimic its airy, fluid quality, emphasizing an invigorating freshness that defines the category,” says Pierre Vouard, fragrance marketing consultant and adjunct professor at the Fashion Institute of Technology.
Vogue’s Favorite Aquatic Fragrances:
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There’s a good chance that aquatic perfumes as we know them would not exist today if not for Calone. With an ozonic, crisp, and slightly fruity scent reminiscent of freshly-cut watermelon, this aromachemical became a darling of perfumers around the world in the 1990s, which is when the aquatic fragrance category was born. “Aquatic fragrances offered a refreshing contrast to the rich, opulent perfumes of the decade prior, ushering in a new era of minimalism in scent,” says Vouard.
Perhaps unsurprisingly, you’ll also often find Ambroxan in aquatic fragrances—this aromachemical is a vegan alternative to ambergris, a whale-derived ingredient used in perfume—as well as Aquazone, a note that’s similar to Calone but with a saltier, more iodine-like aroma. You’ll also see more recognizable, plant-derived notes, which can serve as helpful guides as you shop. For example, maybe you’re looking for an aquatic fragrance that’s like a Caribbean vacation in a bottle. “Coconut adds a tropical, creamy warmth,” says Mancini. “Aromatic notes, such as herbs and spices, introduce a fresh, herbal dimension, while lemon and bergamot bring a zesty brightness.” (Great when you’re seeking out aquatic scents that call to mind damp gardens or Mediterranean holidays, respectively.) Woods, like sandalwood, cedar, and oud, can provide warmth and depth.
