There is a lot of conflicting advice about “the best” way to take care of your hair—especially when it comes to the method of drying it. Some people will tell you that the only healthy option is to avoid heat at all costs. Others will say that using a blow dryer is actually better—especially if you keep the proper technique in mind.
But which is true? While letting hair air dry definitely seems like the most intuitive way to preserve the integrity of the hair, it isn’t always the most practical. And, it may not even be the healthiest.
To get to the bottom of the conundrum, we spoke to Emilie Rondeau, a styling expert at the France-based hair brand GHB. Below, she shares her advice for blow-drying hair properly while maximizing shine, volume, movement—and, of course, the health of the hair.
Understanding the structure of hair
To create gorgeous blow outs with the utmost respect for your hair, it’s important to first understand how water impacts the hair. Hair is a complex structure made up of keratin, the same material found in nails, feathers, and claws. The outer layer, called the cuticle, is calcified keratin, making it as hard as fingernails. The cortex, in the center, is also made of keratin, but is more flexible because it is not calcified. This gives the hair its strength and elasticity.
“It’s a mistake to think that letting hair dry naturally is less damaging than blow-drying it,” says Rondeau. “When hair is wet, its structure changes. Water penetrating the cortex swells the hair and weakens it. Hair can absorb up to 30% of its own weight. The longer it remains damp, the more it continues to swell. Repeated swelling and slow drying can break down the structure and damage it irreversibly.”
How to blow dry hair properly
With that in mind, Rondeau shares the following tips for achieving a perfect blow out without damage.
Remove water
After shampooing and conditioning, remove excess water with a terry towel or microfiber towel. Do not rub as rubbing can break weakened hair and thus create frizz. Apply a leave-in-conditioner if needed and a heat protectant.
Loose dry
Once the hair has been towel-dried and combed through with a wide-toothed comb or detangling brush, use your hair dryer on low heat. Ideally, hold the nozzle about 10 inches from your strands, moving continuously. You can increase the temperature when the hair is 90% dry but not before.
For curly hair, use a diffuser to slowly dry strands, using hands to define curls and separate strands as needed.
Create volume
To create volume, dry your hair by leaning your head forward and positioning the airflow towards the roots. “But that’s not the only option,” says Rondeau, who notes that it’s really about the angle at the root that creates volume. “By propelling the air from the hairdryer in the opposite direction of hair growth you’ll get volume too.”
Add shine
Similarly, achieving shine is really all about aligning the hair in the same direction. “Using a powerful hairdryer with a fine, precise nozzle will, by propelling the airflow downwards, deliver impeccable, shiny, knot-free, frizz-free results,” says Rondeau, who recommends pointing the nozzle down and using a round brush to hold hair taught.
Set hair
To maintain the style once dry, it’s important to cool the results with a stream of cold air. “This will seal the cortex and set the style, sealing in the shine,” says Rondeau.
Finish with tools
“If you wish to use a straightener or curling wand, it’s imperative that your hair is completely dry first to avoid damaging it,” says Rondeau. So, save the heat tools for the very end.
