How could grandma-style laces, grunge aesthetics, and a touch of Lizzie McGuire—the iconic ’90s television teen star—fully coexist? The answer was enclosed within the fall 2025 GCDS collection by Giuliano Calza. At a preview in his Art Nouveau–style studio in the heart of Milan, one could see the collection was based on strong contrasts, typical of Calza’s approach. A key inspiration was those ancient fabrics found in classic Italian grandmothers’ wardrobes—especially in the south—a theme the designer felt attracted to because of his summer reading of La banda degli invisibili by Fabio Bartolomei. The book is about a group of bored elderly people who decide to kidnap Silvio Berlusconi to get what society has denied them.
But the GCDS contrast requires a strong juxtaposition, in this case an exploration of grunge codes. Those were mainly seen through the omnipresent leopard print (used for knitwear, faux furs, and slip dresses) and in the styling, a definitive ode to the ’90s. There was layering matching different prints and textures, including polished python prints and preppy looks recalling school uniforms but completed by thigh-high boots. The contrast was a fil rouge further represented by detachable lace collars (another echo of Calza’s Southern Italian roots, recalling classic school aprons) worn over oversized, egg-shaped coats, ample tuxedos, and double-breasted blazers.
Calza called his style “gothic pop.” As such it featured references to contemporary events, such as the celebration of the Nosferatu movie by Robert Eggers with a dedicated T-shirt.
