A meeting of tradition and contemporary icons: that’s how Giorgia Gabriele summarized her fall outing. “So far, this is the collection that feels the most like me, the one that truly reflects me as a woman,” said the designer. Season after season, Armarium succeeds in being a fusion of what its founder carries within and what women desire to express outwardly. Her women need to reclaim their femininity. That’s why they no longer draw from a masculine wardrobe but choose to present themselves to the world with an overtly feminine one, without losing that touch of androgyny that defines their aesthetic language.
The collection was a tribute to cosmopolitan women, where the chicness of Carolyn Bessette-Kennedy met the sophisticated atmosphere of the British countryside. “She had an elegance that was never ostentatious, she knew how to break the mold without making noise,” said Gabriele. “Inspired by her spontaneity, for the first time I let go; I embraced a less rational concept of minimalism.” In a photograph taken in New York in 1998, Bessette-Kennedy wore a white pencil skirt that left her ankles exposed, paired with a fitted black jacket featuring a mandarin collar emphasized by the buttoned-up front. Gabriele had never designed such a sleek, form-fitting jacket like the “Carolyn,” but she wanted that look to belong to anyone who resonated with its aesthetic.
The color palette ranged from moss green to a shade of red between cherry and burgundy, along with earthy browns punctuated by hints of blue, plus gray, black, and buttery tones. These hues evoked the warm and refined atmosphere of English cottages. The fabrics, the same ones used as backdrops in the lookbook images, include shearling, virgin wool, merino wool, nappa leather, refined calfskin and ostrich. The silhouettes, at times fluid and at others more structured, had a balance between an architectural approach and the desire to feel comfortable in one’s clothing. At the heart of the collection were outerwear and knitwear: from shearling coats to the reinterpretation of the tailored overcoat, from quilted jackets to leather bombers, and jacquard knitwear that echoed herringbone tweed.
What made the narrative even more intimate, however, was the jewelry—along with sunglasses, a new addition to the Armarium world—crafted from 24K gold-plated brass. The “Vaso” series, composed of earrings, a necklace, a bracelet, and a ring, transformed the lines of a vase into sculptural and enveloping shapes. The “Mussel Shell” series, on the other hand, brought the sea into the fall collection with an unconventional yet timeless approach. In the brand’s philosophy, each season is not a standalone chapter but part of a broader vision free of boundaries.
