When Naeem Khan was needing inspiration for his new pre-fall mood board, the designer got to thinking about all the aesthetic elements that a fall collection is usually not: Colorful, lightweight, summery. It ignited an idea within him about flipping the script, and bringing a more spring-minded approach to his fall assortment of signature evening gowns and dresses. “The inspiration was a winter garden,” said Khan. “The way that a winter garden still has bits of spring and summer in it; I mixed colors like lilacs with a lot of blacks and whites.”
Naturally, loads of floral and gardenia-inspired touches made their way onto his glitzy ball gowns. (Nobody does glitz and glamour quite like Khan.) His black, long-sleeved gown with a built-in cape had subtle accents of sequined lilies along the waist. Other offerings were bolder, like his sheer, nude-illusion gown that had sprightly floral appliqués in red and pink all over it. A one-shouldered pink sequin gown had a sweeping asymmetrical sleeve, with cascading beaded flowers trailing down it
The garden references were certainly on the nose. But the more abstract approaches, with design elements taking cues from foliage or branches, shined. Take his black caftan with intricate piping of red silk-thread embroidery. “During Victorian times, Indian embroidery used to be done with ribbons,” said Khan. “You created different patterns by folding ribbons in 24-karat gold or sterling silver. I used the same technique but with silk ribbons.” The craftsmanship reminded one what Khan is best at—elegant evening looks that are extremely well-made. “I’m a third-generation [artist] and I have to keep the traditions of my family alive,” he said.
