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Brian Sacawa is the Founder of He Spoke Style and one of the original men’s style influencers.
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A gray suit is a power suit that wields its influence with subtlety.
“I had noticed men were much more confident in their clothes. So I sought through trouser suits, trench coats, tuxedos, and pea coats to give women the same confidence.” — Yves Saint Laurent
Without using the term “power suit,” Saint Laurent identified the essence of the power suit as a garment that both creates and exudes confidence in and from the wearer. And while the term likely brings to mind a traditional combination of a navy suit, crisp white shirt and bright red tie, there’s much more to the power suit than any single color combination, fabric or cut.
Today I want to share how the underrated gray suit deserves a prominent place in the power suit conversation. Let’s dive in.
What Is a Power Suit?
For better or worse, one’s appearance typically delivers the first impression. Because of this, the power suit is the go-to uniform for many of life’s biggest professional moments. When one wants to both feel and express confidence, capability and control, there’s nothing better than a power suit.
As with everything, the proper power suit starts with the perfect fit. Suits traditionally emanate a sense of strength through their cut, but an ill-fitting suit undermines this message. In other words, it doesn’t matter how well you may have nailed the power suit “formula” if your clothing doesn’t fit well.
The power suit is not defined by a particular color, but it must not venture beyond traditional, conservative colors. The power suit is not intended to convey individuality, creativity or fun and this sense of familiarity and tradition helps frame and compliment, rather than distract from, the wearer.
Solid, not overly intricate patterns are typically worn with the suit, shirt, tie and socks, but simple, traditional patterns such as the pinstripe suit or striped tie are power suit staples.
How Can A Gray Suit Be A Power Suit?
Bright red is the established power tie color because of what we associate with the color either consciously or unconsciously. It grabs attention, like red lipstick. Matadors in red are incredibly masculine. In nature, the color often communicates danger. Humans use it for stop signs and red lights.
If navy blue is the color of professional power, gray is the color of power under control.
So what do we associate with the color gray? The answer tells us why the gray power suit makes so much sense. Instead of the kind of power that is attention-seeking, bold and aggressive, gray reminds us of different facets of power. Here are three:
- We first think of gray being associated with more advanced age, wisdom and trust. It’s neutral, which can help establish an air of fairness and objectivity that may be extremely powerful in certain settings.
- Grays are often associated with sleekness or modernity, like the Guggenheim Museum in Bilbao.
- Finally, gray has an industrial, concrete sense that conveys gravity and longevity.
It’s easy to think of professional moments where one might want to convey wisdom, professionalism, sleekness or gravitas. These are different sides of the power coin to the red discussed above and, in a more nuanced sense, the traditional navy blue power suit.
The navy blue power suit is great and I won’t try to talk you about of it as navy blue brings elements of tradition (military uniforms) and trust (as the expected choice). Two powerful elements to project. If navy blue is the color of professional power, gray is the color of power under control.
The HSS Medium Gray Twill Suit
What’s my go-to gray power suit? Our very own medium gray twill suit, of course. Featuring a rich twilled wool from the venerable Vitale Barberis Canonico who has been creating quality fabrics in Italy for more than 350 years, it’s a versatile staple of my wardrobe.
You can customize the styling many different ways to suit — sorry, not sorry, for the pun — your own tastes, but I personally prefer the classic two button, double vented jacket with a notch lapel and flap pockets. The double venting adds a bit more modernity than the single vent, very much in line with out motto of “classic style, modern sensibility,” while the notch lapel maintains the more conservative focus.
For trousers, I like side adjusters with a single reverse pleat and two-inch cuff, but again these can all be made to your preferences and specifications when ordering from the HSS Shop.
How I Styled It
One of the great things about gray is how easily it pairs with so many colors. A light gray suit looks great with a light pink or pastel green shirt, but those combinations are for different occasions.
For the power suit styling, I paired my medium gray twill suit with a classic white shirt, black tie with white stripes and simple white pocket square for that all-important sliver of contrast. It’s a look that’s pulled together without being loud or commanding attention. This classic combination belongs in any decade as it would have looked just as good in the Mad Men era of Madison Avenue as it does today in Midtown. I feel confident wearing it and it really suits my style as it projects confidence in a refined and subtle way.
Of course you will want any accessories to complement the outfit rather than stand out and make their own statements. My classic Datejust along with a pair of wholecut Oxfords fit the bill perfectly.
The Bottom Line
We need not think of gray suits as forgettable, drab, or boring. Instead, when worn with confidence as part of a well-considered wardrobe in the right setting, it can convey subtle, nuanced power in a way you may not have thought possible.
The gray power suit need not replace the navy blue power suit. I do, however, hope that you will consider adding it to the rotation for the right occasions. After all, it’s these slightest nuances and attention to detail that make men’s style so fun and interesting.
Thanks, as always, for reading.
