It’s no secret that I love K-beauty. In fact, some of my all-time favorite products hail from Korea (shout-out to Beauty of Joseon’s Relief Sun SPF). But a recent visit to my aesthetician Varuni Palacios’s office made me consider a few things before buying more K-beauty products in bulk like I usually do. While she also loves K-beauty, she said there are a few things to keep in mind—especially if you’re acne-prone like me.
Don’t worry, if you do struggle with breakouts and like to use Korean skincare, I’m definitely not saying you should stop doing that. In fact, there are plenty of amazing Korean brands that cater specifically to acne-prone skin. The only thing Palacios recommends is being more mindful of the ingredient list. I’ve been guilty of slathering on a heavier K-beauty cream or cleansing oil in the past, and if you’re going through treatment, you’ll want to be extra cautious of that. For everything Palacios told me, keep reading. She shared her expert insight below.
Why K-Beauty Is So Popular in the U.S.
TBH, it’s not a huge mystery why K-beauty products constantly go viral on social media. There’s so much to love about them. Palacios explained exactly why it’s so great from an aesthetician’s point of view.
“I love that K-beauty principles have become mainstream when it comes to the way we care for our skin,” she says. “Korean skincare is known for its comprehensive and layered approach to skincare, emphasizing hydration, prevention, and maintaining a healthy skin barrier.”
“In the U.S., we look to South Korea as a prominent leader in the global skincare market and have K-beauty to thank for the constant pursuit of innovation that has changed the way we treat skin in the treatment room and at home. I’m talking about multi-step routines that include double-cleansing; use of novel ingredients in product formulations like spicules (my current favorite); fermentation technology; advanced delivery systems (like microencapsulation and nanotechnology) that make ingredients more bioavailable and effective; and an exquisite focus on texture and experience, especially when it comes to serums, ampoules, sheet masks, and something no other can beat: SPF. We also love K-beauty because when compared to the leading U.S. luxury skincare brands we know and love, it’s much more affordable.”
Board-certified dermatologist and Lightsaver founder David Kim, MD, also shared what he loves about the Korean philosophy: “K-beauty focuses on ingredients and routines, and it is perfectly aligned with the U.S. philosophy. It’s not looking for a quick fix but adopting a routine that will hydrate, brighten, and restore the skin. It’s all about prevention and maintenance.”
What to Keep in Mind Before Buying K-Beauty If You’re Acne-Prone
Even though Palacios is a strong supporter of Korean skincare and its philosophy, she says there are a few things to remember if you’re acne-prone or deal with a skin condition. “Despite all that K-beauty has to offer, there are some important factors for consideration when deciding how deep to dive into it, especially if and when experiencing more problematic concerns like acne, rosacea, inflammatory conditions, and pigmentation,” she explains. “Korean skincare often prioritizes hydration, brightening, and anti-aging. However, these focuses might not address prevalent skin issues in the U.S. like acne, acne scars, or hyperpigmentation, which often need different ingredients and treatments, or specific care for product formulation without pore-clogging ingredients. Korean beauty standards also differ culturally and may not immediately meet the diverse needs of the U.S. market. Korean skincare products are designed for the Korean climate, environment, and diet, which differ significantly from those in the U.S. Consequently, our skin in the U.S. has different needs.”
Another thing Palacios says to consider is potential formula changes once a product reaches the U.S. “While Korea’s Ministry of Food and Drug Safety has stricter product regulations than the U.S. Food and Drug Administration (FDA), international products entering the U.S. market often require formulation changes, potentially altering their original appeal,” she explains. “And then there is product stability, shelf life, and authenticity to consider, which depend on factors like shipping origin, transit time, varying climates experienced during shipping, and reseller information.”
When it comes down to it, Palacios mostly wants to stress being a conscious consumer. Some of these critiques aren’t limited to the Korean skincare market—there are plenty of brands here in the U.S. that use comedogenic ingredients that you should also be aware of. The bottom line is that Palacios wants you to know about the ingredients in the products you use and whether they’re good for your specific skin. As a pro tip, she recommends utilizing tools like Acne Clinic’s pore-clogging ingredient checker or NYC aesthetician Sofie Pavitt’s similar tool to make sure your product isn’t causing you any new breakouts. “Everyone is different, and to each their own, but my own personal rule of thumb is to turn to K-beauty for hydrating, barrier-restoring products and turn to clinical skincare (that’s clinically trialed and tested for efficacy) for treatment-based products and problematic concerns like acne, rosacea, and pigmentation. But always read your ingredients and know what’s pore-clogging. No blanket statements or one-size-fits-all approach—everything in moderation, and most of all, if you like it, I love it.”
My Thoughts on K-Beauty as an Acne-Prone Beauty Editor
As a beauty editor who loves to try products, it’s hard not to pick up something new from my favorite K-beauty retailers every week. While I’m definitely heeding Palacios’s advice on checking for heavier ingredients, I also wanted to share that I’ve had a great experience with Korean skincare—even though my skin is extremely sensitive (borderline reactive) and acne-prone. I’ve even used a few formulas that have traditionally pore-clogging ingredients, but they’ve never caused me any new breakouts. Everyone’s skin is different, and if you do struggle with breakouts, you might need to get to know your skin extremely well to know what ingredients work for it and which ones don’t.
I love that Korean skincare focuses on repairing the skin barrier, too. I realized that most of my skin issues stemmed from barrier damage, and the more I healed it, the less I broke out. Although Palacios says to proceed with caution and always check the ingredients before using something, we chatted about which K-beauty formulas we both love for acne-prone skin and other products that work extremely well. For all our favorites, take a look below.
VT COSMETICS
Cica Reedle Shot 300
“There’s a new, at-home version of the Beyond Miracles Cellstory Liquid Microneedling treatment that is safe and effective called The VT Reedle Shot, which absolutely lives up to the hype. It comes in different strengths. I’ve been using the 300 every other night, and I can honestly say my skin has never felt or looked better despite being acne- and pigment-prone. Hard to get your hands on, but so so so worth it.” — Palacios
Beauty of Joseon
Relief Sun
Both Palacios and I consider this one of the best K-beauty sunscreens around—even for acne-prone skin. It’s so lightweight, creamy, and hydrating without being too heavy. You don’t even feel like you’re wearing a sunscreen—just a silky moisturizer.
ANUA
Heartleaf Quercetinol Pore Deep Cleansing Foam
As far as cleansers go, Palacios loves Anua’s Heartleaf Cleansing Foam. It contains soothing ingredients along with 0.5% BHA (a chemical exfoliant) to gently unclog pores without stripping the skin or making it more irritated.
Then I Met You
Living Cleansing Balm
This cleansing balm from Then I Met You is another favorite of ours because it has an amazing texture that just melts into the skin and removes so much excess dirt and oil from the skin without clogging your pores.
HARUHARU WONDER
Black Rice Moisture Cleansing Oil
If you like more of an oil texture and are acne-prone, Palacios recommends HaruHaru Wonder’s Black Rice Moisture Cleansing Oil. It’s great for sensitive eyes, and she also recommends the brand’s Black Rice Moisture Cleansing Gel.
Abib
Gummy Sheet Mask 10 Sheets Heartleaf
These soothing sheet masks from Abib are a must for Palacios. Heartleaf extract soothes and calms sensitive skin while helping to manage breakouts. The cica-infused gummy sheet masks also contain liposome technology for enhanced soothing and better delivery of active ingredients.
AESTURA
Atobarrier 365 Ceramide Lotion
This K-beauty lotion is another staple for Palacios because it’s lightweight, hydrating, and barrier-repairing without causing breakouts.
Dr. Althea
Pure Grinding Cleansing Balm
According to Palacios, this cult-loved Korean cleansing balm is another winner for acne-prone skin. It contains hydrating (yet non pore-clogging) oils like grape seed and camellia seed that remove makeup, sunscreen, excess dirt, and oil from the skin in a flash.
As far as non K-beauty favorites go, Palacios and I love this classic formula from IS Clinical because it’s gentle but works like a charm.
“This acne treatment serum has a cult following, and it’s because it works. Like, overnight.” — Palacios
Magic Molecule
The Solution
“This is approved by the National Eczema Association and treats over 50 skin ailments like a broken skin barrier, eczema, psoriasis, acne, rosacea, inflammation—you name it. Not one client leaves my treatment room without this, and I advise to use it as a toner after cleansing morning and night.” — Palacios
Face Reality
8% L-Mandelic Serum
“For those that can’t tolerate many active exfoliating acids, Face Reality’s Mandelic Serum and Sofie Pavitt’s Mandelic Clearing Serum are a godsend. Mandelic acid is an alpha hydroxy acid with a large molecule, derived from almonds, and it’s great for acne, pigment, skin texture and, hydration. It will change your skin.” — Palacios
Vanicream
Daily Facial Moisturizer
“Vanicream—will never not have this on my nightstand. It’s so healing and so accessible.” — Palacios
iS Clinical
Reparative Moisture Emulsion
“IS Clinical’s Reparative Moisture Emulsion is like silk for your skin!” — Palacios
