Talk about a comeback. The latest hotspot for eating out in New York City has been around for almost a century: the humble diner. For a moment, it seemed as if these time-warp eateries were destined for extinction, with the past decade seeing many of them close their doors—casualties of rising expenses, rent hikes, and changes in customer tastes. Yet a recent wave of newly-refurbished, next-generation diners and luncheonettes have ushered in a vibrant new era and audience. And these days, they’re as sought out by the fashion set as any of the wildly expensive haute eateries or private members clubs of the moment.
“What I love about diners is that they are so New York, and so unpretentious,” explains fashion designer Batsheva Hay, who presented her spring 2023 collection at Ben’s Kosher Delicatessen in midtown Manhattan in September 2022. Models paraded through the diner between booths packed with editors double-fisting glasses of orange juice and their phones, making for one of that week’s most memorable shows. This spring, the jewelry brand Starling hosted a morning presentation at Montague Diner, where 14-karat gold necklaces and the decadent gemstone signet rings were playfully scattered around platters of classic breakfast fare. And when Chanel opened a pop-up diner in Brooklyn last summer, decking it out pastel pinks and double-C logos aplenty to celebrate its Chance fragrance, it became possibly the most haute canteen the city has ever seen.
Today, it’s not uncommon to see mugs of classic diner coffee sharing tablespace with espresso martinis and natural wines. But at spots like Montague Diner and Kellogg’s Diner, both in Brooklyn, these menu upgrades don’t represent drastic overhauls—more like minor tweaks or clever spins on old standards to reflect contemporary tastes. On a recent Saturday morning at Kellogg’s Diner in Williamsburg, I watched as two friends caught up over cornmeal pancakes, a quinoa salad, and a small foothill of tortilla chips sturdy enough to sweep through a pool of thick, homemade queso. Nearby, a young couple shared one of the diner’s signature strawberry pretzel “salads.” The creamy, crumbly, jello-based dessert—a modernized throwback to simpler times—became an instant hit when new owners re-opened the 1928 establishment earlier this fall.
