Maison Margiela Artisanal, Spring 2018—Prints With a Purpose
I wanted to reproduce through a print the high shine of a plastic rain coat worn over a man’s coat. Other pieces were made with light reflective fabrics that when they walked under a certain light became multi-colorful, and not when they seemed when they first walked on. The monster trainers were made with Reebok.
Maison Margiela Artisanal, Fall 2018—Nomadic Cutting
Nomadic cutting is a manner of cutting garments that enables clothes to migrate around the body. You can see it’s a skirt with a waistband but within it I’ve cut the l’image of a jacket. Or a caban that’s cut into a coat, or a little bustier dress that’s cut into a cape.
Maison Margiela, Spring 2019—Genderless
What had happened was I had started to fit on boys and girls. I introduced Thomas [Riguelle] and Valentine [Charrasse], my muses at work, into the fittings. So I would fit on Thomas and do the fitting of that same coat on Valentine, and if I felt they looked like they both owned the piece, it went into the collection—genderless.
Maison Margiela Artisanal, Spring 2019—The Memory Of
It’s like camouflage in a very abstract way. The purest point where it started from was Martin ripping a pocket of a pair of denim jeans that had been washed; he ripped the pocket up and it revealed the original state and color of the fabric. We just ran with that and took it much, much further.
Maison Margiela, Spring 2020, and Maison Margiela Artisanal, Spring 2020—Fabric Sequins
This is something that I’m still using even up to now, the idea of cutting out these holes in different rhythms. Depending on how many holes you cut out, you can reduce something like a trench to have the nonchalance of a string vest. I then tried it on the bias, and then even into winking or dégradés of these fabric sequins, where they weren’t always completely cut out.
