Fashion / Celebrity Style

Inside the Atelier of Francesca Miranda

When we in the American fashion industry think of international designers, we often think of the critically acclaimed small designers hailing from experimental, innovative markets challenging the idea of luxury, such as those from Kyiv, Ukraine, or Seoul, South Korea. To some, international designers are synonymous with the “other”: tiny maisons that, without the proper resources or social media spotlight, are strapped for cash and, as a result, need the help of glossy magazines and large-scale press markets to show their designs to the world and sell with the intention of breaking through to the American market.

Frankly, it couldn’t be further from the truth and, in this author’s opinion, borders on offensive. International designers are designers, full stop. It wasn’t until a recent trip to the coastal oasis of Barranquilla, Colombia, that I saw it firsthand. Enter Francesca Miranda, the womenswear, resort, and bridal line whose small but mighty team weaves a rich tapestry of their heritage and sartorial tastes. Alongside over 30 skilled bead workers, fabric cutters, seamstresses, and tailors—most being women who have worked at the brand for almost a decade—everything the brand produces is made in-house at its Barranquilla atelier. While Miranda and her team are best known for their intricate bespoke bridal pieces and tropical resortwear, the brand also approaches its menswear and home collections with the same artistry and, ultimately, Colombian savoir faire.

“The richness of our culture is part of what makes us unique, and we aim to share this with the world through each collection,” Miranda explains when asked what it means to honor her roots. The brand recently showed in its hometown, a triumphant return to Baranquilla after not showing in the city for over a decade. “The latest collection we presented in Barranquilla is no exception. It reflects our brand DNA through artisanal techniques and vibrant interpretations that embody the spirit of our origins,” Miranda says.

(Image credit: Courtesy of Francesca Miranda)

Miranda, born in El Salvador and now based in Barranquilla, first began her business in 1995, focusing exclusively on menswear after helping her husband with his garment manufacturing business. After rediscovering her passion for fashion design and construction, Miranda began with a small-scale shirting business sold in department stores across the country. “I had a keen eye for fabrics and colors since childhood, inspired by memories of helping my father select materials for his custom clothing,” she explains, nodding to her lifelong passion for design, which would ultimately lead her to create her own label. She lived for styling her father’s tuxedo shirts, going on to create her own. After showing for a few seasons at Colombiamoda, Colombia’s fashion week, Miranda was asked to create a few womenswear pieces. The rest is history.

Nowadays, Francesca Miranda the brand sits at the intersection of two worlds: one rooted in deeply significant Colombian and indigenous heritage and the other steadfastly modern, sharp, and vibrant, representing the modern, fashion-forward woman. Natural fibers and materials, like totumo or platano leaves, are turned into jackets and beaded accessories. During a 2003 collaboration with Artesanías de Colombia, Francesca Miranda showed an artisanal-inspired collection during Milan Fashion Week, much to the praise and delight of the press. “What I love most about these techniques is the historical richness and the creative possibilities that come from working with one’s hands and within a community,” she explains. “This experience shaped how I approach fabric choices for each new collection—always seeing them as an opportunity to create something innovative, to add texture.”

Collage of designs, runway images, and personal portraits of Francesca Miranda.

(Image credit: Courtesy of Francesca Miranda)

In a literal sense, Colombia is woven into the fabric of the brand. Miranda is best known for her use of pata de cabra, a handcrafted technique that weaves together strips of fabric, leading to a fringe-like draping style used in skirts, dresses, tops, and bridal gowns. “When I first encountered the technique, it was not used in women’s clothing—just a couple of children’s dresses here and there,” Miranda says. Her modern take on pata de cabra has become synonymous with the brand since the early 2000s, spurring others in the industry to also adopt the technique and follow suit. “I believe that marrying cultural heritage and modern design is watching how techniques are done and coming up with your unique way to use it.” Hand-dyed, lace, and painted linings are also a nod to the detailed Colombian savoir faire Miranda and her atelier are known for.

Miranda couldn’t do the work alone, though. She largely credits her hard-working team at the brand’s atelier, some of whom have been working on garments for over 20 years. Thirty-two master tailors, garment makers, and fabric cutters make up the team that touches every single piece the brand ships out to customers at home and retailers abroad. It’s a family, Miranda notes, while reflecting on the atelierists and assistants who make up the backbone of the brand. During Francesca Miranda’s runway show, there wasn’t a dry eye in the house when the designer pulled out her white-coated staff from the wings of the runway and asked them to stand alongside her to receive their flowers and praise. They’re just as instrumental as she is.