’60s Mod and ’90s Glam: Gucci F/W 25 Went Back to Its Roots

For its fall/winter 2025 collection, Gucci models walked through a dark green-coated space with a massive interlocking G logo in the middle. The color alone—a departure from the black cherry that has defined its recent seasons—set the tone for the next chapter of the Italian house. With the recent news of creative director Sabato De Sarno’s exit, show-goers waited with bated breath to find out if Gucci would announce an appointment at or just before the curtains rose, making it one of the more anticipated shows of the week.

Instead, the collection was presented by Gucci’s design team who paid tribute to creative directors past including Alessandro Michele, Tom Ford, and yes, De Sarno, too. It was a tribute to where the brand has been and what makes Gucci, well, Gucci: a sense of cinematic drama along with a healthy dose of sprezzatura, or effortlessness. The show also marked the 70th anniversary of the Horsebit Bag and the motif was sprinkled throughout the collection in inventive new accessories that our editors are already eyeing. From an homage to Jackie O style to sultry ’90s glam, here’s everything to know about the Gucci fall 2025 show during Milan Fashion Week.

From the Design Studio

With the great reshuffling of creative director that’s happening across the industry right now, you wouldn’t be blamed for thinking (hoping?) that we’d already have a new design head in at Gucci this season after Sabato De Sarno’s recent departure. Presented instead by the Gucci design team, the fall/winter 2025 collection serves as a kind of interim period before a new hire steps in and as such, the group of in-house designers appeared from backstage to take a collective final bow. They coordinated in matching “Ancora Verde” sweatshirts in the same verdant hue as the show’s setting, ushering in an exciting new color evolution from De Sarno’s “Gucci Ancora” cherry red.

A Celebration of the Horsebit’s 70th Anniversary

If you ask us, there are few things as symbolic of the Italian house as the horsebit motif and for its 70th anniversary—the 1955 Horsebit Bag is when horsebits were first introduced—Gucci paid homage through a series of accessories that featured throughout the collection. Horsebit details appeared as supersized metal waist belts atop velvet pussy-bow dresses, as chocker necklaces layered over high silk necklines, as long chain pendants, and even as miniature dainty anklets that wrapped around the bottoms of patent pumps.

1960s Mod

Although the collection traversed timelines and included nods to the 1970s and 1990s, there was an undeniable overtone of the mod style associated with the late ’60s. Tweed skirt suits showed up with shrunken 3/4-sleeve blazers, leather driving gloves appeared in saccharine pink, and shift-dress silhouettes defined much of the runway, making more than a few references to Jackie O, a well-known Gucci muse.

1990s Glamour

Many creative directors past have put their mark on Gucci, but few have had the lasting influence that Tom Ford’s tenure has. The Gucci team paid homage to the vision of sultry glamour that Ford laid out so well during his time there in the ’90s. That came through via lace-trimmed silk dresses and deep V-cut bodysuits that framed pendant necklaces, a fair amount of sheer lace, and dramatic fur outerwear, all beloved elements of Ford’s Gucci updated for the modern wearer in vivid acid tones like lime green, bubblegum pink, and royal purple.