Over a year into his tenure as creative director, and Sabato de Sarno is officially hitting his stride at Gucci. For the past two seasons, the Italian house has been undergoing a complete makeover, making this season’s Gucci show one of the hottest tickets in town. In lieu of traditional paper invites, guests received a retro Nordic-style desk calendar indicating the date of the spring/summer 2025 collection which was presented at the Triennale Milano, an art and design museum. There, models descended from a spiral staircase onto a slick catwalk painted in the brand’s signature burgundy shade.
The designer used the term “casual grandeur” to describe how this collection took its shape, calling out tailoring, lingerie, leather, and ’60s silhouettes as his obsessions of the moment which all culminated in a collection that felt at once retro and modern. De Sarno explored the heritage of the brand through legacy motifs like bamboo and horsebit, which both took on fresh forms through a horsebit print and bamboo-inspired jewelry. From a ’60s style revival to new belts, bags, and shoes, here’s everything to know about the Gucci Spring 2025 show during Milan Fashion Week.
A-List Attendance
Nobody brings out an impressive A-list crowd like Gucci does, and its latest runway show hardly wavered from its reputation. Season after season, it’s reliably been the backdrop to viral celebrity moments and this season delivered all the same. Dakota Johnson arrived wearing a sheer white dress topped off with a leather jacket and large Gucci shades. Bridgerton star Nicola Coughlan leaned into fall’s suede trend and opted for a brown suede cape for the occasion. Meanwhile Kirsten Dunst and Jessica Chastain kept things pretty in dainty floral dresses.
(Image credit: Gucci)
WHO: Daisy Edgar-Jones
(Image credit: Gucci)
WHO: Dakota Johnson
(Image credit: Gucci)
WHO: Kirsten Dunst
(Image credit: Gucci)
WHO: Nicola Coughlan
(Image credit: Gucci)
WHO: Jessica Chastain
’60s Renaissance
The last several Gucci collections have nodded to the ’60s redux that’s happening all across the fashion landscape right now, and the spring season doubled down on the decade’s influence, cementing it as the key reference point to know for 2025. It’s no secret that Jackie Kennedy is a longstanding muse of the Italian house, including the very own Jackie 1961 bag named after the late First Lady, and this collection was a full-on homage to the core codes of her style. Mini skirt suits, wide-brimmed sun hats, driving gloves, and wraparound sunglasses are all key pieces that contributed to an overall sense of retro glamour. If there were any question about the most influential decade in fashion now, Gucci boldly set the record straight: the ’60s are so back.
(Image credit: Gucci)
(Image credit: Gucci)
(Image credit: Gucci)
(Image credit: Gucci)
Gucci Rosso, Continued
De Sarno introduced the Gucci Rosso shade during his debut collection for the Italian house last year, and since then the deep oxblood hue has become a brand signature to be found across ready-to-wear, bags, and accessories. Spring 2025 marked his sixth runway collection, and the brand-defining color was ever-present. It showed up on leather peplum jackets, glossy Jackie shoulder bags, delicate lace dresses, and logo-embossed maxi coats. In addition, this collection continued on several hues from Fall 2024, namely olive green and bright lime shades and it also featured a pop of tangerine hues, which could indicate where color trends are heading in 2025. Overall, the designer sent a clear message with the color story this season. If you were considering investing in a burgundy item, rest assured the hue will only continue to be relevant far into next season and beyond, as long as Gucci has anything to say about it.
(Image credit: Gucci)
(Image credit: Gucci)
(Image credit: Gucci)
(Image credit: Gucci)
New It Accessories
Whatever Gucci is doing, we’re always keeping a close eye on the accessories. This runway debuted a number of key pieces that are just brimming with It-item potential, and we’re already hearing buzz about them throughout the industry. First up is the Gucci 73, a brand-new bucket bag shape complete with the horsebit detail on the side. We saw this in black and olive-green iterations and are already filing it away as a future spring It bag. There was also an east-west version of the Gucci Bamboo 1947 bags that featured lucite handles and coordinated with the bamboo-style necklaces and bracelets that finished off many of the looks. Then came the skinny boots and retro Jackie O-style sunglasses. Wide-brimmed hats complete with a horsebit print also stole the show. Come spring, we’ll be keeping a close eye on these new-season accessories and no doubt shopping accordingly.
(Image credit: Launchmetrics Spotlight/Gucci)
(Image credit: Launchmetrics Spotlight/Gucci)
(Image credit: Launchmetrics Spotlight/Gucci)
(Image credit: Launchmetrics Spotlight/Gucci)
(Image credit: Launchmetrics Spotlight/Gucci)
