Dreadlocks, also known as locs, can be traced back through history for thousands of years. In Ancient Egypt, for instance, synthetic wigs made from a blend of palm fibers, wool, and human hair resembled a full crown of locs and braids. More than just a hairstyle, “locs are a symbol of spirituality, freedom, cultural identity and for many, a way of life,” says Charlotte Mensah, the award-winning hairstylist and owner of Hair Lounge. “Mami Wata, a well-known figure in West African folklore, is a water spirit with long, twisted hair. According to the Igbo ethnic group, who mainly hail from southeastern Nigeria, Mami Water is an utterly ethereal beauty. Her hair, known as ‘Dada’, represents abundance, fertility, and sexuality.”
On the Caribbean island of Jamaica, Rastafarians believe in a principle of balance, called “livity.” Wearing your hair long in a natural and minimally manipulated style is an important element, as is maintaining a vegetarian diet and dressing in colors associated with Pan-Africanism: red, green, gold, and black.
For Ama Hair Salon co-owner Ama Safo, embracing her natural coily hair through different modes of expression, including locs, was the key to discovering her vocation. “When I first came to the UK from Ghana, I was struggling to find my passion,” she says. “My Jamaican friend loved how I did my hair and suggested that I could also share this talent with other people. I started off renting chairs in barber shops, which was quite challenging at the time, although it motivated me to dream of having my own salon.” Now, locs are one of the most popular services at the salon, which opened in 2001, with barrel twists and double twists among the most requested styles. “Prior consultations are essential,” Safo notes. “We usually recommend low tension styles that won’t pull on the edges too much, because we find that over-styling contributes the most to any thinning or breakage,” co-owner Silas Baiden adds. It’s this sort of expert know-how and experience that has really put the Tottenham salon on the afro haircare map (clients include Ncuti Gatwa).
Everything you need to know about starter locs
Different techniques are used to achieve the desired effect. At Hair Lounge, starter twists and bohemian faux locs are the go-to styles. Extremely versatile due to their long and thin shape, curly strands of braiding hair extensions can be added for extra texture.
Comb coils are an ideal starting point for 4C hair that’s two to three inches long. “To create this look, a pencil-sized loc is formed by twisting small strands of hair around a twist comb,” explains Mensah. “There are a few key points to note when creating comb coils. First, the longer the hair, the longer it will take to loc. Secondly, the coils can react to water, and if you have soft hair, contact with water might cause the loc to unravel.” Mini twists and braids are other starter loc options, as well as instant locs, where the hair is sectioned and tangled into a semi-mature loc using a steel crochet tool.
