When Emeric Tchatchoua was awarded the ANDAM Special Prize last June for his label, 3.Paradis, the ceremony took place on a summery evening at the Palais Royal. Flash forward to this show, held in the bowels of a research building, where faux snow covered the ground of a dark, cavernous room. The blizzard-like scene, reminiscent of winters when the designer lived in Montreal, was more inhospitable than his lively and well-executed looks deserved. Yet it provided a glimpse of Tchatchoua’s ability to level up the possibilities of a contemporary, youthful Paris brand that has much going for it.
Naming the collection “Frozen in Time,” Tchatchoua tapped into ’90s memories of being housebound on a snow day, watching sports and karate movies (a soundtrack by Thomas Roussel was interspersed with action noises) in his bed. The result was high-concept coziness. Padded tops were properly finished with pillowcase edges; down coats were doppelgangers for duvets and mattresses. A shaggy top boasted a Bruce Lee poster; basketball team memorabilia invaded tailoring (the show notes mentioned a collaboration with Mitchell & Ness x NBA). There were a number of impressively crafted pieces involving leather assemblages of a city skyline and martial arts graphics. There were also conversation pieces: the illusion of textured snow atop outerwear and double-waistband trousers with a belt that looped around the upper thighs.
In this creative context, ties and shirts looked youthful. Similar to the way Off-White routinely remixed streetwear and suiting, the lineup blurred dressing up and dressing down, while also channeling a Billie Eilish mode of bookish meets grunge. Still, Tchatchoua designs in his own key and has no shortage of ideas to bait retailers who are new to his brand. A tufted technique on trousers and shorts from a previous season, only now in denim with strass detailing, has the makings of a 3.Paradis signature.
Beyond the 100,000 Euro ANDAM windfall, the recognition, Tchatchoua said backstage, “helped me to really trust myself more, and gave me the courage and confidence to keep doing what I do and keep pushing the boundaries of fashion.” Actually, 3.Paradis might benefit from a little more restraint. But for now, the forward momentum is clear as day.
