Yet another form of hyperpigmentation is melasma, which is frequently seen among pregnant people (although anyone can develop it). “It is a benign condition that causes hyperpigmentation most commonly presenting above the lip in the mustache area, cheeks, and forehead,” says Dr. Park. Hormones and UV exposure can both play a role, contributing to an uptick in melanin production that ultimately leads to a brown-toned discoloration. It can become chronic, too, meaning that a thoughtful approach with the help of a dermatologist is usually recommended for this.
What skin types are most prone to hyperpigmentation?
People with darker skin tend to be especially vulnerable to hyperpigmentation, “due to having more active melanocytes,” says Dr. Danilo. That means that any skin trauma, inflammation, or hormonal changes can result in more noticeable dark spots—which is why post-inflammatory hyperpigmentation tends to be a bigger problem among this demographic than is among people with fair skin. (In fact, research has found it to be the earliest sign of aging among people of color, whereas Caucasian folks are more prone to wrinkles.)
Can pigmentation actually be removed with a serum?
It depends on the pigmentation in question. “Over-the-counter face serums can be effective, especially for milder cases of post-inflammatory hyperpigmentation,” says Dr. Danilo; these include acne scars or minor skin wounds. That’s because the melanin is in the epidermis, or most superficial, layer of skin.
On the other hand, “pigmentation disorders caused by deposition of melanin in deeper layers of the skin, which is more rarely seen, will not respond to these types of topical treatments and should be evaluated by a board-certified dermatologist,” says Dr. Park. “For a condition like melasma which is environmentally dependent, it is a chronic struggle that will unfortunately worsen at times.”
Also, if you experience recurrent hyperpigmentation stemming from a repeat cause—for instance, acne continuously pops up, creating new dark spots—then a visit to the dermatologist is recommended so you can address the underlying issue (in this case, the acne).
Finally, keep in mind that addressing hyperpigmentation is a commitment. “Any treatment used for dyspigmentation will realistically take weeks to months and require consistent use,” says Dr. Park. “Results are not immediate, but gradual.” And on that note, to both see and maintain results, using a broad-spectrum sunscreen with SPF 30 or higher is critical. “Without consistent sun protection, it’s very hard to see significant improvements, as UV exposure can quickly undo the progress made by serums,” says Dr. Del Campo.
What ingredients can improve the look of pigmentation?
One advantage of hyperpigmentation is that, when it comes to active ingredients, the world is your oyster. There are a bevy of actives that can help, some of which are recognizable even to skin-care newcomers. Vitamin C, for instance, is “a powerful antioxidant that brightens and inhibits melanin production,” says Dr. Del Campo. (Dr. Park, for her part, thinks that it should be a staple in any good skin-care regimen, hyperpigmentation notwithstanding.)
Niacinamide is another ingredient that’s earned recent buzz; it works through a different mechanism than vitamin C to stymie pigment production, which is why you can frequently find them paired together. It “helps reduce the appearance of dark spots and strengthens the skin barrier, making it especially useful for sensitive skin types,” says Dr. Del Campo. Azelaic acid is another ingredient he recommends, especially for post-inflammatory hyperpigmentation and melasma. “It works by inhibiting an enzyme involved in melanin production,” he says. You’ll also see kojic acid, tranexamic acid, and licorice extract among these formulas.
Finally, anything that helps skin shed its upper layer—which may house melanin deposits—can also fade the look of hyperpigmentation. That includes alpha hydroxy acids, such as glycolic acids, and retinoids. “These promote skin cell turnover, which helps fade dark spots over time,” says Dr. Del Campo.
Meet the Experts
- Danilo Del Campo, MD, is a board-certified dermatologist at Chicago Skin Clinic in Chicago.
- Michelle Park, MD, is a board-certified dermatologist at Washington Square Dermatology in New York.
