For that reason, it’s especially powerful for reducing the appearance of dark spots and other forms of hyperpigmentation. Moreover, “it also helps repair and support the skin barrier which is the outermost layer of the skin,” says Dr. Amin.
What form of tranexamic acid is best?
Tranexamic acid comes in both oral and topical forms, but “the oral version is not FDA-approved for any dermatology purposes yet,” says Dr. Castilla. It might be prescribed off-label for patients who have severe or persistent melasma, she says, but you’d have to see your board-certified dermatologist to get that.
While getting tranexamic acid orally isn’t for everyone, it might be preferable since the ingredient “is challenging to formulate into skin care due to its poor penetration and instability,” says Dr. Castilla. “However, it can still be effective, and the majority of people can easily start with topical tranexamic acid.” In skin-care products, it’s also safe for long-term use.
What is the best percentage of tranexamic acid for skin?
It depends on the skin condition you’re trying to treat. The concentrations can vary between 3% and 10%, according to Dr. Amin, and those on the lower end—between 3% and 5%—”are commonly used for dark spots including for melasma, post-acne marks, or sun damage,” she says. “These lower percentages are ideal for those who have sensitive skin or are new to tranexamic acid, as they tend to cause less irritation on the skin.”
How to Use Tranexamic Acid
While it ultimately depends on the formulation, you can usually use tranexamic acid once or twice a day. “Most often it is one ingredient in a brightening serum, which should be used right after cleansing and before a moisturizer,” says Dr. Castilla.
She recommends pairing it with “multiple active ingredients that can target different pathways that cause hyperpigmentation,” she says. “The different ingredients work synergistically to enhance the other’s results.” These include vitamin C and niacinamide. Dr. Amin also points to retinoids as a good option, since these “can rejuvenate the skin by improving its texture, promoting cell growth, and reducing clogged pores,” she says. She advises steering clear of using exfoliating acids, like glycolic acid, at the same time as tranexamic acid; the combo could be too irritating for sensitive skin types.
And finally, “sunscreen is key, because exposure to UV can worsen hyperpigmentation and melasma,” says Dr. Amin. “It is important to protect the skin from the sun’s rays to see the full benefits of tranexamic acid.”
Meet the Experts
- Carmen Castilla, M.D., is a board-certified dermatologist at New York Dermatology Group in New York, NY
- Mina Amin, M.D., is a board-certified dermatologist at California Dermatology Specialists in Los Angeles, CA
