Aside from cosmetic shortcuts like highlighters, the fastest way to get a glowing complexion is to exfoliate, whether that’s by using a scrub, peel, or pad. But if you want skin that’s not just luminous, but incredibly clear to the point that it verges on poreless, one category is most suited: the best BHA exfoliants.
BHAs, or beta-hydroxy acids, are a type of chemical exfoliant, with the most common being salicylic acid. “It’s primarily used to treat acne because it’s great at eliminating oil from the pores and exfoliating the skin,” says Dr. Richard Bottiglione, board-certified dermatologist for 50 years and founder of Dermatologist’s Choice Skincare. That’s because BHAs are lipophobic, or oil soluble. Their cousins, AHAs (alpha-hydroxy acids) like glycolic and lactic acids are water soluble, so they primarily exfoliate the superficial layers of the skin, explains Dr. Anetta Reszko, board-certified dermatologist in New York, NY. BHA exfoliants go deeper, penetrating pores to whisk away congestion that can cause blackheads, breakouts, and other uneven texture for clearer skin.
Vogue’s Favorite BHA Exfoliants:
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But that’s not all BHA exfoliants can do. In addition to having pore-decongesting and skin-resurfacing properties, BHAs are also anti-inflammatory and anti-microbial. With the right formula, you can tackle hyperpigmentation, prevent and treat blemishes, and address sun-damaged or aging skin, says Dr. Sean Alemi, double-board-certified facial plastic and reconstructive surgeon in New York, NY.
There are a few secrets to success when it comes to using BHAs, chief among them knowing your skin and being open to a little experimentation. “Learning what your skin can tolerate and when you can increase the amount of acid is trial and error,” says Dr. Bottiglione. “Those with more experience with acids understand what works best for their skin.” Whether you’re a seasoned pro at using exfoliating acids or a wary newbie, we’ve got your back: Ahead, the best BHA exfoliants and tips for how to incorporate them into your routine.
- Why We Love It: This remains a gold standard in topical salicylic acid therapy. The magic is largely due to the formula’s pH (around 3.5) which keeps the ingredient active and able to effectively decongest the pore. “This pH-dependent bioavailability facilitates effective desquamation [exfoliation], comedolysis [decongestion], and anti-inflammatory action—making it a first-line topical for patients with mild to moderate acne, seborrheic congestion, and enlarged pores,” explains Dr. Reszko. Despite its potency, it’s tolerated well by most skin types because it’s formulated with alcohol or fragrance.
- Key Ingredients: Salicylic acid, green tea
- Size: 4 fl. oz.
- Why We Love It: These gentle pads use a blend of willow bark and betaine salicylate—weaker forms of BHA that have larger molecule sizes and thus penetrate the skin more slowly than standard salicylic acid would. “This results in reduced irritation potential, making the product suitable for sensitive or BHA-naïve skin,” says Dr. Reszko. For added defense against sensitivity, the pads are infused with soothing allantoin and panthenol, making them an ideal pick for daily use to stave off blemishes.
- Key Ingredients: Willow bark water, betaine salicylate, allantoin
- Size: 70 pads
- Why We Love It: This treatment blends exfoliating silica particles with resurfacing retinol and salicylic and lactic acids in a formula that warms as you massage it into your skin, creating an ultra-deep clean feeling. As you rinse it off, complexion-dulling dead cells and grimes will wash away, too, leaving your skin more luminous and fresh.
- Key Ingredients: Salicylic acid, lactic acid, retinol
- Size: 2.5 fl. oz.
- Why We Love It: This natural mask is powered by salicylic acid precursor willow bark extract, which works with AHAs glycolic and lactic acids to gently slough away dead skin and decongest pores to give skin a glow. The mask’s blue hue comes courtesy of blue tansy, a type of chamomile that’s rich in a compound known as chamazulene that helps quell inflammation and relieve redness. Once you rinse off the mask, you’ll see brighter, calmer-looking skin.
- Key Ingredients: Willow bark extract, pineapple and papaya enzymes, blue tansy oil
- Size: 2.02 fl. oz.
- Why We Love It: Dr. Reszko points to this formula as a nice option for those with melasma looking for controlled exfoliation, thanks to the inclusion of tranexamic acid. “This ingredient has growing evidence in reducing post-inflammatory hyperpigmentation via inhibition of melanocyte tyrosinase activity,” she explains. The salicylic acid in this product is encapsulated, meaning it has a “time release” factor—it intentionally absorbs slowly into the skin, making it better tolerated by sensitive, dry, or reactive skin types than traditional salicylic acid.
- Key Ingredients: Salicylic acid, tranexamic acid, aloe vera leaf juice
- Size: 5 fl. oz.
- Why We Love It: If your skin is too sensitive for most leave-on exfoliants or scrubs, give this mild cleanser a go. It blends pore-unclogging salicylic acid with gentle AHA mandelic acid and gluconolactone, a polyhydroxy acid that carefully sloughs off skin while boosting hydration levels. For added benefit, the formula features glycerin, panthenol, and niacinamide, which help repair the skin barrier with every wash.
- Key Ingredients: Salicylic acid, mandelic acid, gluconolactone
- Size: 8 fl. oz.
- Why We Love It: Two percent salicylic acid may be the key ingredient of this serum, but you’re more likely to notice the strawberry extract, which provides skin benefits—hydration, enzymatic exfoliation—and a delectable smell. The formula also features humectant hyaluronic acid and AHA mandelic acid, which Dr. Reszko notes offers antibacterial properties and gentle resurfacing powers due to its larger molecule size.
- Key Ingredients: Salicylic acid, azelaic acid, strawberry extract
- Size: 1.01 fl. oz.
- Why We Love It: This legendary peel combines salicylic acid with AHAs—glycolic, mandelic, lactic, citric, and malic acids—for a treatment that’s effective, yet gentle enough to use daily. If you commit to everyday use, expect faded fine lines, clearer pores, and an overall radiant glow. Just be sure to use both steps: “The first step exfoliates and unclogs pores, while the second neutralizes the acids and delivers soothing ingredients to reduce irritation,” explains Dr. Alemi.
- Key Ingredients: Salicylic acid, lactic acid, green tea extract
- Size: 60 treatments
- Why We Love It: You’ll get the most from this formula by applying it on damp skin—that allows the jojoba beads to easily slough away dead cells and rough texture—before adding water to create a lush foam. As you cleanse, the formula’s glycolic and salicylic acids work to further resurface your skin and unclog pores, perfectly prepping your complexion for the next steps in your skin-care routine. “It is also infused with panthenol or vitamin B5 to hydrate and soothe skin, which makes it suitable for most skin types,” adds Dr. Alemi.
- Key Ingredients: Salicylic acid, glycolic acid, jojoba beads
- Size: 6 fl. oz.
- Why We Love It: Addressing fine lines and wrinkles can be frustrating enough—and to add insult to injury, hormonal changes with age can bring breakouts into the mix. This SkinCeuticals serum tackles it all, combining decongesting salicylic acid (1.5%) and exfoliating glycolic acid (3.5%) with dioic and capryloyl salicylic acids to control excess oil and further refine skin.
- Key Ingredients: Salicylic acid, dioic acid, glycolic acid
- Size: 1 fl. oz.
Everything You Need to Know
What concentration of BHAs should you use?
Typically, over-the-counter products feature 0.5 to two percent salicylic acid. “At the 2% level, it exhibits optimal efficacy for acne management, particularly for blackheads, whiteheads, and enlarged pores,” says Dr. Reszko. Normal or oily skin types should have no trouble tolerating 1 or 2%—“however, if you have sensitive skin, starting with a lower concentration—0.5 to 1%—is best,” says Dr. Alemi. At 0.5%, the ingredient will still provide mild exfoliation benefits without disrupting sensitive or reactive skin.
In rare cases, you’ll see higher concentrations. Nine percent BHA exfoliants can be effective on stubborn milia, notes Dr. Alemi, while 40 to 60% BHA can be used to eliminate warts and calluses, says Dr. Bottiglione. (It should go without saying: do not use the latter as a full-face peel.) But typically, “higher concentrations of 3% or more are typically reserved for professional use in chemical peels, where clinical oversight is necessary due to the risk of barrier disruption, irritation, or post-inflammatory hyperpigmentation, especially in individuals with darker skin types,” warns Dr. Reszko.
Ultimately, the best way to find the right formula for your needs is to try one, says Dr. Bottiglione, who recommends doing a patch test on a small area of your cheek. If your skin tolerates it well, go ahead and commit to full-face application. “Just because you get red at first doesn’t mean to stop using the acid all together,” he adds. “You may need a milder concentration or may need to work on building your tolerance.”
What to Look For in BHA Exfoliants
While important, the percentage of a BHA in a product isn’t the only thing to consider. First, there’s the format. Anything that’s left on the skin rather than washed off (like a cleanser) will provide more potent benefits as they’re given more time to absorb and get to work. Dr. Alemi recommends a liquid or toner formulation for oily or acne-prone skin, as it’ll absorb most quickly; gels or serums for normal to combination skin; and lotions or moisturizers for those with dry or sensitive complexions (the added hydration and nourishment from these formulas will help protect your skin barrier).
Then, check out what other ingredients are in the formula. Steer clear of alcohol or fragrance, as these could heighten your risk of sensitivity, and seek out skin-soothers instead. “Products that include anti-inflammatory or barrier-supporting agents—such as niacinamide, panthenol, allantoin, bisabolol, or hyaluronic acid—may mitigate irritation and improve tolerability,” says Dr. Reszko. For added defense against breakouts, you can look for zinc and willow bark or tea tree oil, which can help to further control sebum and prevent blemishes. You may see BHA exfoliants with other resurfacing actives, like retinol, AHAs such as lactic, mandelic, or glycolic, or fruit enzymes. “BHA will help those ingredients penetrate deeper,” notes Dr. Bottiglione. While it’s not recommended to use separate products with these ingredients in conjunction with BHAs, a formula that combines them can be used safely, so long as your skin can handle it.
There’s one last thing to keep in mind when shopping for a BHA exfoliant—the pH level. “An ideal product should have a pH between 3.0 and 4.0, which preserves the efficacy of salicylic acid in its un-ionized, bioavailable form,” says Dr. Reszko.
Is it safe to use BHAs every day?
Salicylic acid is safe to use daily, so long as you’re using the right formula for your skin and you tolerate it well—in most cases, it’ll be people with oily and acne-prone skin who have success applying this ingredient every day. If you have dry or sensitive skin, or use other potent actives like retinoids or benzoyl peroxide, you shouldn’t use BHAs daily. “This can lead to over-exfoliation and skin barrier damage,” says Dr. Alemi. Instead, start by applying your BHA exfoliant two or three times a week, working your way up to more frequent application, suggests Dr. Reszko. No matter how often you use your exfoliant, just make sure you’re always applying a broad-spectrum sunscreen with SPF 30 or higher every single day, without fail. “Chemical exfoliants increase skin sensitivity to ultraviolet radiation and potential photoaging,” says Dr. Reszko.
What ingredients should not be applied with BHAs?
While it’s okay to use BHA products that contain AHAs or retinol, be very careful when creating your own active ingredient skin cocktails at home. Using retinoids, AHAs, vitamin C, or benzoyl peroxide with salicylic acid can put you at risk of irritation, redness, or compromised skin barrier function. You can still keep these actives in your routine, however—just stagger them in your regimen to make sure you’re getting the best out of your products and doing right by your skin.
